Triage  5.13d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.13d [details] FA:  Ric Geiman Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The crux sequence culminates in a powerful toss to...

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Description 

The "Slice of Bread" is a wafer-thin flake jutting several body-lengths out from the cliffline, suspended precariously in space 50 feet above the trail. A sparse series of thin pockets and sharp edges dot the underside of this flake, providing a barely-free sequence every bit as spectacular as the setting. Among Shelf's hardest lines, Triage presents a stunning departure from the area's typical steep slabs. With a business section that climbs out more than up, this route is easily the most "modern" of Shelf's hard routes, offering thoroughly gymnastic movement, and relatively enormous footholds. Despite these qualities, the route attracts few suitors, perhaps due to its obscure location or the brief window of good conditions. Then again, the deterrant could just be the bewildering crux sequence, known to have stumped several of Shelf's most accomplished climbers.

Stick clip the first bolt, then teeter precariously up the pitiful slab of exfoliating mud to reach the solid dihedral. Cruise the dihedral to a no-hands stance before the business. Traverse out into space on steadily worsening holds to a protruding spike. The baffling crux boulder problem commences; a sustained sequence of small pockets culminating in a desperate huck from an undercling. The core-intensive sequence makes breathing a real challenge, and the burly clip mid-way through may be the route's hardest single "move". From the jagged jug at the last bolt, a final cryptic puzzle guards the anchor.

Location 

Climbs the right side of the Slice of Bread, between "Torch & Twang" (L) and "Tower of Power" (R).

Protection 

Stick-clip mandatory. 8 bolts to 2BA. A DMM Revolver is helpful for the 4th bolt.

Photos of Triage Slideshow

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Traversing under the Slice of Bread.	A well-earned shake just above the crux.	The route concludes with moderate, technical face ...