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 ADVANCED
The Great Black North
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bete Noir 
Black Toe Arete 
Borg, The 
Burnt Toast, The 
Capital Outlay 
Chuana Chavaria 
Cold Feet 
Datura 
Delilah 
Don't Eat Stuff on the Sidewalk 
Don't Make Me Shave You 
It's All Gone 
Laugh the Past Away 
Locutus 
Magus, The 
Pincher 
Resistance is Futile 
Skank to Crank 
Three Doubles 
Torch & Twang 
Tout Tout de Suite 
Tower of Power 
Triage 
Where Paradise Ain't So Crowded (aka "Reamer") 

Triage 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Ric Geiman
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Oct 10, 2010
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A well-earned shake just above the crux.

Description 

The "Slice of Bread" is a wafer-thin flake jutting several body-lengths out from the cliffline, suspended precariously in space 50 feet above the trail. A sparse series of thin pockets and sharp edges dot the underside of this flake, providing a barely-free sequence every bit as spectacular as the setting. Among Shelf's hardest lines, Triage presents a stunning departure from the area's typical steep slabs. With a business section that climbs out more than up, this route is easily the most "modern" of Shelf's hard routes, offering thoroughly gymnastic movement, and relatively enormous footholds. Despite these qualities, the route attracts few suitors, perhaps due to its obscure location or the brief window of good conditions. Then again, the deterrant could just be the bewildering crux sequence, known to have stumped several of Shelf's most accomplished climbers.

Stick clip the first bolt, then teeter precariously up the pitiful slab of exfoliating mud to reach the solid dihedral. Cruise the dihedral to a no-hands stance before the business. Traverse out into space on steadily worsening holds to a protruding spike. The baffling crux boulder problem commences; a sustained sequence of small pockets culminating in a desperate huck from an undercling. The core-intensive sequence makes breathing a real challenge, and the burly clip mid-way through may be the route's hardest single "move". From the jagged jug at the last bolt, a final cryptic puzzle guards the anchor.


Location 

Climbs the right side of the Slice of Bread, between "Torch & Twang" (L) and "Tower of Power" (R).


Protection 

Stick-clip mandatory. 8 bolts to 2BA. A DMM Revolver is helpful for the 4th bolt.



Photos of Triage Slideshow Add Photo
The crux sequence culminates in a powerful toss to a jagged mini-ledge.
The crux sequence culminates in a powerful toss to...
Traversing under the Slice of Bread.
Traversing under the Slice of Bread.
The route concludes with moderate, technical face climbing.
The route concludes with moderate, technical face ...
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