||Trad, 5 pitches, 800', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Andrew Ross,Paul Ross, Layne Potter, (Var Leads) May 21st 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||468|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jun 1, 2008|
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BETA PHOTO: A)Death by Chocolate.5.9 B)Rilke's Climb.5.8 C)Tre...
Scramble up a low angle slab for about 300' until below the obvious groove.
P1)Climb the groove/slab passed 2 bolts to the left and up to double anchors. 100' 5.8R.
P2).4th class flat slab moving down left to reach start of an open slab below a thin black dyke line.
P3).Climb the slab not much pro for 170' ,to reach double anchors above a large pothole.200' 5.6R
P4). Up a short corner on the right 5.6 to reach the 4th class slab of Lilli's Leap ,follow this for about 300' to the summit blocks.
P5).A couple of committing moves to reach the summit and lower off bolt 20' 5.8. (Same finish as Lilli's Leap.)
One can 4th class down the slabs of Lilli's Leap keeping to the south side to reach the ground.
Starts about 100 yards right of the slot canyon that leads to the climb Death by Chocolate.It climbs a groove system on the south side of the formation above the next slot canyon. see photo.
A few cams from 1/2" to 2" Slings. 60m ropes
Paul starting the 200' pitch 3