Jan 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a PG13
5.8 my ass. This climb is easily a 5.10+. After you easily place your first piece from a solid stance, you're faced with about 15 feet of flaring, crumbling, unjammable crack, surrounded by blank rock face on both sides. Awkward hands and only smearing for feet is not 5.8 territory. I had so much trouble I decided to aid climb, but my cams popped out twice because of the crumbling and flare. Gave up and climbed South Buttress to rap down (with a directional) to retrieve gear. Not recommended.