||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 450', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3+ M6 Mod. Snow PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Stanley Vrba and his 3 Amigos|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Year round|
|Page Views: ||328|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Jul 24, 2013|
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This is a great 'alpine-like' line that can vary depending on conditions. It was designed as a dry tool route but can vary with some ice and snow. It has loose rock, and the turf, when frozen, is quite good for climbing. I guess it could be climbed as a pure rock route but would not be considered enjoyable.
Begin the route on the lower right edge of the slab and (P1, 60m) climb, trending left, on ledges and short faces staying on the slab under the steep face, to a stance and 2-bolt belay.
(P2, 50m) Work a slight bit left up short faces and ledges to a shallow left-facing corner to a great, protected 2-bolt belay.
(P3-70m) Climb up 30' to the roof, set some pro and drop back down a bit before following the weakness/crack that runs under the roof. Tricky moves up a steep face with some crumbly overhangs lead to a wide chimney. Pull out of the chimney when you can, and trend right to the huge trees.
Do a double 70m free rap off the overhang and use the 2 bolted belays below to the deck.
This is straight above the parking area on the slabby wall with the huge overhang near the top. Rap from trees to 2, 2-bolt fixed anchors.
Take I-70 to Officer's Gulch exit. Park on the south side of the highway by the gated bike path. Cross the bikepath, and hike directly up the scree, aiming for the lower right corner of the slab (left of the Diamond Wall).
This is on a Northeast-facing wall called Officer's Wall which is made of gneiss/schist with slab, ledges, and overhangs.
The altitude is 10525 feet.
Cams to 5", a few thin pins (KB, LAs), medium nuts, and maybe a Spectra or 2. It has two bolted belays.