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First Sella Tower
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Trenker 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 590'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Luis Trenker, Hans Pescota. 1913
Season: Summer
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007

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Leading the polished misery that is pitch 2 of Tre...

Description 

This route ascends a large groove on the south-west corner of the tower.

Pitch 1 - After scrambling up some rock steps, climb up the prominent corner/groove to the right of the south face. (40m)

Pitch 2 - The "Trenker Crack". Stem up the polished corner with a wide crack/chimney in it. (40m)

Pitch 3 - More easy climbing up the corner system. (40m)

Pitch 4 - Follow the broken crack up to the end of the corner. (30m)

Pitch 5 - Traverse right out of the corner system to the base of a chimney. (20m)

Pitch 6 - Climb up the chimney to the top of the formation. (40m)

Descent - Climb down into the notch between First and Second Sella Towers. Descend some well marked grooves. Then head down and right to a path that returns to Sella Pass.


Location 

The route climbs the south-west corner of First Sella Tower. Start just to the right of the large south face.


Protection 

There are some pins on the route. Also bring a rack of nuts and some slings.



Photos of Trenker Slideshow Add Photo
Route Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.
The Trenker Crack with 2 parties visible with the magnification feature.
BETA PHOTO: The Trenker Crack with 2 parties visible with the ...
The route ascends the obvious corner left of center.
BETA PHOTO: The route ascends the obvious corner left of cente...
This photo shows the entire SW face of 1st Sellaturm. The obvious dihedral is home to the Trenker route.
This photo shows the entire SW face of 1st Sellatu...
Brandon follows the slippery crux.   Jugs all around.
Brandon follows the slippery crux. Jugs all arou...
Trenker Riss, route sketched in red (approximate line).
BETA PHOTO: Trenker Riss, route sketched in red (approximate l...
Comments on Trenker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Flaherty
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 29, 2008

The crack on pitch two is absolutely the slipperiest piece of rock I have ever touched. It is polished to a high gloss from nearly 100 years of ascents. Feels like church marble.

By BenL
Mar 21, 2008

that's true. my first dolomites route. the first ascent leader was as famous movie-maker.

By Drew McLean
From: Colorado
Oct 17, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great first route in the Dolomites