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Treiber's Deception 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Larry & Beckey Treiber, Bill Sewery, Tom Kreuser, 1967 FFA: Lance & Dane Daugherty, Larry Treiber, 1968
Season: Fall to Spring
Page Views: 2,646
Submitted By: Anonymous Climber on Mar 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Travis Strong on the airy step across.

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Description 

With an original rating of 5.5, after climbing it, one understands where this route got it's name. Even at it's current grade of 5.7, you might think theres still a bit of deception going on!

Stem your way up between the main wall and the boulder to reach a layback flake on the main wall. Get something in and then make the dicey-feeling move onto the main wall. Climb up the crack to a face protected by a bolt. Move out and around the left and up to a stance below a crack (bolt). Lever your way up this corner, following it up left to the base of a wide crack. This wide crack leads to the top.

Excellent climbing on this route, with moves that span the spectrum from face to crack, from laybacking to offwidth. The all-encompassing renaissance climb!

Location 

Treiber's Deception is found on the southeast corner of Tom's Thumb where a boulder forms a chimney. This is the start of the route.

Protection 

Set of nuts, cams up to 4"


Photos of Treiber's Deception Slideshow Add Photo
First few moves after the stem sequence between th...
BETA PHOTO: First few moves after the stem sequence between th...
Cory belays from the top of the 2nd off-width afte...
BETA PHOTO: Cory belays from the top of the 2nd off-width afte...
Initial crack start on Treiber's Deception
BETA PHOTO: Initial crack start on Treiber's Deception
Treibers Deception
Treibers Deception
The red line outlines the general path of the clim...
BETA PHOTO: The red line outlines the general path of the clim...
In this picture, the first off-width section can c...
BETA PHOTO: In this picture, the first off-width section can c...
This view looks down to the top of the first off-w...
BETA PHOTO: This view looks down to the top of the first off-w...
Looking back down the initial lieback secion
BETA PHOTO: Looking back down the initial lieback secion

Comments on Treiber's Deception Add Comment
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By Dustin Wildermuth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 14, 2006

Very interesting "bolts" found on this one.
By Brandon Bogardus
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 3, 2006

Classic climb. This is a great one to bring new climbers on. You do not need any off-width gear, as the off-width sections are short.
By Brandon Bogardus
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 3, 2007

Greg's opinion is probably the correct one. One wide piece of gear is you aren't climbing far beyond this grade. Otherwise, there are lots of face hold inside the offwidths, thus lessening thier severity (and the need for wide pro).
By Jim French
From: Arizona
Oct 29, 2007

this was my second trad lead climb and it was a little scary. the bolts on the face section are old and sketchy but are there so i used them. i felt that the climb is broken into 3-4 boulder problems with good ledges to rest on after each "problem". the most difficult for me was the last section due to lack of a large cam (and lack of experience). getting past the beginning chimney section is a bit hight dependent. all in all i think its an excellent climb with lots of of variation in climbing style. so with that said.....you should climb it :)
By Tradoholic
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Two #4's would be helpful for a 5.7 leader, bolts are junk but aren't really necessary anyway.

70m gets to the ground easy on the east face rap station.
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 2, 2012

Went on a hike up there, and was met with a disturbing sight... a huge new silver bolt had been shat out right at the step across... any thoughts on that? Seemed like an atrocity to me, considering you can pro it right there. Just wondering what the dealio was...
By ErikF
Nov 26, 2012

Please remember the City of Scottsdale policies (shown in the Comments on the overview of the McDowell Mountains). No new bolts in new locations. It is in our interest to keep these things relatively quiet and handle them internally and not draw public attention to them.

As far as this "bolt" at the step across, several folks had mentioned it to me but my understanding is that it had been a mirage and is no longer visible.
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 17, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The second "bolt" on this protecting the crux is able to be bent with your bare hands. Probably not the best first trad lead. Face moves on the offwidths are super helpful. The pro was solid where it was. A #4 is nice, but you can leave it on the ground if you have the number five for the top. Not the best time I have had out at the McDowell's. Rap off the Northwest side with a 60. Once was enough for me on this