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Southeast Face
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Tree Route 

Tree Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Raffi Bedayn, Carl Jensen, & Randolf May - 5/39 FFA Tom Frost -1960
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Osprey on Feb 4, 2010
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Description 

This route will really have you monkeying around!
Pitch 1) Ascend a tree, slinging branches as you climb higher and higher. Finally you will see the step over to the cliff, the branches are way small and you will probably question moving any higher. Complete the step over and climb good edges (.8) to a small ledge with two old pitons nailed in the back side of it.
Pitch 2) Climb straight up into an overhang and traverse a clean, splitter, finger crack to the left. Pull the roof crack (.9) and climb up to a large ledge with a tree on it.
Pitch 3) From the tree, pull edges (.7) to gain a slab that takes you to the top.

This climb could be done in one pitch but the rope drag would be bad on the final slab. Most parties link pitch 2 & 3.


Location 

The start is obvious. Find the tree below the notch and a steep section of dirt. You can try to avoid climbing the tree but the face is harder than it looks.
Rappel 80ft into the notch on the south side of the pulpit from a rappel station.


Protection 

Standard rack to 3" Nothing big. Extra slings. One rope.



Comments on Tree Route Add Comment
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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Oct 5, 2012

Did the tree at the start of this fall over or something?

By Kole DeCou
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 2, 2013

Did this a couple of years ago and it appeared that the tree had freshly fallen. Some of the leaves were still green if I recall. For the first pitch we climbed a crack a few feet uphill from where the tree used to be (kinda dirty 5.9-ish)

Very good second pitch!