This route is found about 25 feet down and to the right of Rambo Santa. Look for the obvious 6 foot roof with a tree above it. P1: Head up the runout slab to the roof. Place a large cam in a crack and/or clip a mangled bolt with a long runner. Pull the one move wonder and belay from chains on the tree. P2: It is possible to continue up runout slabs to the Rambo Santa belay. (5.6R). [Apparently, aka Schoolmarms in Space.]
Light rack, with optional 3-3.5 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Theo pulling the roof, 28-Sept-08.
Dan Howell switching from tree hugger to rock hugg...
Under the roof shot. The crux is the roof. Trick...
Armin Gooden on P2, not much pro.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 30, 2003
Bring a couple cams, #2-3 Camalots to place halfway up the route, and at the top. The only pro is at the roof itself, forty feet up, and the bolt has been pulled hard (a spinner) from the roof
|By allen simons|
Nov 6, 2004
It is a fun route all the same. You can make it more challenging by starting at the far left side of the roof and climbing the jugs to the normal pull out point. This is safest if done on top rope although you could clip the spinner and [traverse] to the left to climb it this way. I did see a female climber, [maybe] Liz Grennard, pull the roof via a finger crack at the lip that is a few feet right of the normal pull over point. Looked cool, but I [couldn't] do it.
|By Gary Schmidt|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2005
I sure wouldn't want to fall on the poor excuse for a bolt protecting this roof. It is a real spinner and a little mangled. You pay your money, and you take your chance!
|By allen simons|
Jan 23, 2006
When I lead this route I usually place a cam in the crack where the roof meets the face. I put a 4 foot runner on it to get rid of the rope drag. I still would not want to fall on the spinner but if I did, and it pulled at least I [wouldn't] hit the ground. It would however be a hell of a back slapper on the slab. Ouch!!!
|By Doug Lintz|
From: Kearney, NE
May 30, 2006
There's several places for small pro on the slab below the roof if you don't want to run it out. A fun one move wonder.
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Feb 19, 2007
BETA: There is a small crack up and right of the manky old bolt. In fact, you can see it in the pictures. If you don't trust that POS bolt, you can slot a small stopper (Wild Country Rock #1, BD #4, or an RP) or a very small cam in the small crack. In fact, there is probably enough room for two pieces of gear. Makes me wonder why the bolt is even there.
P2 (aka, Schoolmarms in Space) has a long run-out just above the belay (5.6R sounds about fair). The climbing is okay, but not as hard as the P1 crux. Finding pro on P2 is the crux. Veer left from the tree, then head straight up. You end up clipping an old crappy bolt just below the Rambo Santa anchors.
Dec 7, 2008
Excellent optional start to the Diagonal route. Climb to tree and then slightly right. Run-out a bit to bolts atop first pitch of Diagonal. Then finish the second pitch of Diagonal.
Jul 19, 2009
The climb up to the roof can be adequately protected if you shoot left on the bushy ramp about 10 feet up until you meet the roof and then head back right under the roof to the bolt. To avoid rope drag, run out the initial ramp (which is easy) as much as you dare and then use long runners. The bolt is scary. Definitely back it up.