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Climbs a cool pocketed face to a ledge mid-way up with some loose rock (optional belay). Steep corner to an exciting traverse, ending at the big burned tree . Rap off the burned tree (bring webbing).
Checking for Chipmunks. Left variation, 5.10R; to the roof, LB over, head to Treehugger tree. Wider than #6.
See overview topo.
Standard rack to #3, set of nuts.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 31, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One of the better full-length 5.9/5.10-'s at Capulin. Originally I stopped at a tree, but that was burned in the 2011 Las Conchas fire and is gone except for a charred stump. If you climb it now, build an anchor just past the ledge where the tree was. From here, climb up and over a block, then wander up a short 5.9 crack to the rim; or from the belay, go straight up unprotected 5.9/5.10 tight squeeze chimney for 35' (I backed off of it). You ought to be able to find other anchors to rap off by hiking a short ways in either direction. If someone wants to put a bolted anchor in where the tree was or somewhere else, I don't care what you do.