Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 1,155 total · 6/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jan 25, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Chimney between 2 columns to begin this climb. There is an alternate start up parallel seams to the right of this chimney that is 5.10+. These put you on a resting ledge.

From this ledge, there are 2 options:

a) the easier 5.10 way: Angle up and right for a ways following steep hand cracks that are shared with Mr. Fosters Lead. Near the top, bust out left on pockets through slightly overhanging ground (crux) to the stump. The finish is somewhat contrived but fun.  On lead it is more logical to stay in the crack directly above and finish as for Mr. Fosters Lead-- this is a little easier and probably 10-/10/"old school 5.9+" over all.  Even if you finish left to where the tree was, this path and Mr. Fosters Lead have a feel of largely being variations of the same climb.

b) The direct way straight up (5.11 R ?).  This is the line shown in "Jemez Rock", and fully avoids the Mr. Fosters cracks.  Climb the steep overhang, turning it on its right, then continue up the pocketed face.  Not 5.10 unless I suck.  Maybe this is the "overhanging seam/face" from the sentence in the book.

The book and Walt's old route list rated this 5.10c or 5.10d, but if you go the 5.10 way, most of the more interesting portions of the climb are the same as Mr. Fosters Lead, and it's not much of an independent route.  Not sure what's most correct, but hopefully this page clarifies it all.

Location Suggest change

Used to be identified by the dead/dying tree on the ledge in the center of the Playground, but that's gone (a small dead stump of a tree still exists.)  This is the first or second obvious place to climb right of the major low roof system in the center of the Playground, and has a wide chimney that begins from a ledge about 8' up.

Protection Suggest change

1 set nuts, 1 set cams, up to #4 camalot. Tricams might be useful.
Has a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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