Just a few minutes from the popular Millstone crag sits a much steeper, pumpy wall with 4 good routes. All are bolted sport climbs ranging from 5.10c/d to 5.11c. The rock is steep, pumpy, with a profusion of large holds, some good but most not so good making on-sighting the routes more difficult (this may change if more traffic leads to a more obvious chalk trail.) The crag goes into the shade at 2 pm and offers a cool, secluded, breezy area to climb in the summer months. All these routes need more climbers to ascend them to establish consensus grades.
Park at the S-curve and take the Lake Blanche trail to the bridge. Rather than crossing the bridge, turn right and follow a less obvious trail through the brush until you arrive at the talus field. Follow the talus up to the Millstone crag. Climb up along the Millstone to the highest route (Yuppie Love). Turn left at this point and follow a faint trail back into the Talus traversing across the very slightly up hill past cairns. When you reenter some trees you are at the top of the cliff – traverse down along the downhill side (north) of the crag to a flat area near two large trees at the base of the obviously overhanging wall. Total approach time from when you leave the Millstone wall is 3-5 minutes. Total time from car is 20-30 minutes.
Browse More Classics in Treadmill Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Treadmill Wall:
Angina 5.10c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Treadmill 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Jamaican Vomiting Sickness 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Featured Route For Treadmill Wall
(JVS) The leftmost route on the wall. Steep and cryptic. There are plenty of holds but figuring out which one to use on this steep route takes time and adds to the pump. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in UT