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Start on Pine Tree Ledge about 50' right and around the corner from Dislocation Buttress. Look for face features leading to a diagonal crack about 10' off the ledge. Crank up to this crack (engaging!) and get some gear, then follow it up and left. Then climb vertical cracks to a ledge belay. From here, locate the right facing corner/overhang above. Climb up to this and jam/lieback/undercling out the bulge and around the corner (crux.) From there its easy cracks to the top.
Standard rack to 2"
From: Denver, CO
Nov 7, 2007
The first pitch is nicely exposed, then the crux I got all hunched over like a monkey fukin a football, then smooth sailing!!! I'm short though, but what a great climb. would love to man up for the solo!!
Aug 11, 2008
The "...easy cracks to the top." description following the crux is little vague. After moving up right around the crux roof you find yourself in a big corner. Instead of going up the corner (boring), move back left on horizontals onto the arete above the roof you just did. Continue up the horizontals (small cams or pink tricams) staying just left of the arete to a good belay ledge. Way fun. (The currently available fold-out topo wrongly shows the route traversing way left over to Ragpicker here. You could do this, but it is not recommended. Stupid guidebook authors ;-) Consider the possibility of rope drag when protecting the roof.