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Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks. It’s thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-rated—yet seldom climbed.
TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15’ terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew
meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss
starts from this same terrace.
The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35’ to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.
Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35’. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, you’ve gone too far.
The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.
To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.
After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.
On the GT Ledge, on a 15' high terrace to the left of Andrew.
Standard rack, with one extra small cam.
Apr 23, 2013
Great photos. Can't wait to get on this.
From: Germantown, MD
Aug 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fun and airy. Best to avoid the hanging belay and do it in one pitch. Rope drag with a single 60m wasn't an issue if you sling out your pro.