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h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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Last Will Be First, The T 
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Red Pillar T 
Silhouette T 
Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Twilight Zone T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 
Wop Stop T 

Traverse of the Clods 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters
Page Views: 4,591
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Jul 16, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Eve exiting on the 5.6 variation. The crux 5.9 se...

Description 

Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks. It’s thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-rated—yet seldom climbed.

TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15’ terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.

The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35’ to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.

Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35’. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, you’ve gone too far.

The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.

To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.

After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.



Location 

On the GT Ledge, on a 15' high terrace to the left of Andrew.

Protection 

Standard rack, with one extra small cam.


Photos of Traverse of the Clods Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux.  Photo by Tricia.
In the crux. Photo by Tricia.
Rock Climbing Photo: Treat yourself to an awesome photo opp after sendi...
Treat yourself to an awesome photo opp after sendi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic Fries setting up the hanging belay at the end ...
Nic Fries setting up the hanging belay at the end ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking over at Twilight Zone from the belay.  The...
Looking over at Twilight Zone from the belay. The...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Mooradian following the first pitch. Photo by...
Mark Mooradian following the first pitch. Photo by...
Rock Climbing Photo: A nice spot for a nap on an October afternoon in t...
A nice spot for a nap on an October afternoon in t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the P1 traverse, from the hanging ...
Another view of the P1 traverse, from the hanging ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark following P2. Photo by Tricia.
Mark following P2. Photo by Tricia.
Rock Climbing Photo: One move above where I described the hanging belay...
One move above where I described the hanging belay...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia following the P-1 traverse, with the Andrew...
Tricia following the P-1 traverse, with the Andrew...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top, through the two-inch cr...
Looking down from the top, through the two-inch cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up toward the crux from the belay.
Looking up toward the crux from the belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Max on the long traverse pitch.  I did a hand trav...
Max on the long traverse pitch. I did a hand trav...

Comments on Traverse of the Clods Add Comment
Show which comments
By rogerbenton
Apr 23, 2013

Great photos. Can't wait to get on this.
By CatChen
From: Germantown, MD
Aug 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Fun and airy. Best to avoid the hanging belay and do it in one pitch. Rope drag with a single 60m wasn't an issue if you sling out your pro.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 5, 2015

Great route. Very nice as one pitch but communication with the second will be tricky and there is some decent spacing between gear at times, so I would want to make sure they are solid. Even if you don't want to do the final pitch, the first pitch is great and you can easily finish on the 5.6 variation.
By Kurtz
Aug 23, 2015

The beta for this great route is excellent and Tricia's pics are outstanding...BUT... you need to read everything including the picture captions and look at the pics carefully (unless you're a bad-ass).

Study this Key Picture.

IMHO the optional belay is primarily for moral support. I had no trouble skipping it. You may also prefer not to have your second watch as you vacillate and tremble.

3 of the 4 climbers I watched traversed too low at the end of P2 and got stuck. The move to get up onto the traverse ledge is pretty tricky and most sane people will try to avoid it, but that's the way you need to go.

Very small cams (00 & 000 C3s) or BallNutz are all that will fit at the end of the final traverse. They may not hold much but you'll feel safer.

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