Descend Mt Sill to the ridge that connects it to Polemonium Peak. Climb this ridge heading northwest toward the false summit. Avoid the enormous notches in the ridge, which drop sharply away to the Palisade Glacier, by keeping your line just south of the ridge.
Once the false summit is reached, you've got a couple of options; rappel or downclimb straight down into the top of the gully that seperates the true from the false summits, or traverse/downclimb into the gully to your left(west) 100 feet or so and then back up once you reach the branch that will lead you up between the summits.
From the top of the gully, climb the slab to the north and gain the knife-edge of the summit block. Climb the edge west to the summit.
Descend by down by rappeling or downclimbing to the U-Notch then back down to the glacier.
This route is class 2 to the summit. The summit is an easy class 5 but the exposure is awesome. Descending the U-Notch has its own challenges as well. Recomend rope, light apline rack, ice axe, helmet.
Dont count on left over rap slings/rings and pins left by other parties, bring your own stuff to leave behind.
Davi Rivas on the southeast ridge of Polemonium Pe...
BETA PHOTO: The Polemonium Glacier, Polemonium Peak, North Pal...
Dave Stillman on the southeast ridge of Polemonium...
|By Hamik Mukelyan|
From: Pasadena, CA
Jun 12, 2013
Summit notebook is missing. Take a small one and a pen with you!