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Apple Cider
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One Man Sex Party 
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Travels With Charlie 
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Unsorted Routes:

Travels With Charlie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 949
Submitted By: eDixon on Jun 9, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: "Charlie" beta in blue. End pitch 1 behind a boul...

Description 

P1 - Start the same as Easy to Remember, then go up a right-angling ramp past a ledge to a belay behind a large boulder.

P1 Variation - Do a more direct finger crack start that meets up with the right-angling ramp (5.9).

P2 - Traverses to the left on a sloping ledge and moves around a corner.


Location 

The start is the same as that of Easy To Remember. To the right of Texas Sucks and left of Apple Cider.


Protection 

Standard East A rack.



Photos of Travels With Charlie Slideshow Add Photo
Traveling with Charlie around the super exposed prow. A good nut placement keeps you from pendulum-ing back into the wall below your belayer.
BETA PHOTO: Traveling with Charlie around the super exposed pr...
Mike travels to the anchor in the cave at the top of P1.
Mike travels to the anchor in the cave at the top ...
Rounding the prow and dropping down into the hand crack at the top of "Birthday Crack" for a rest. Good pro where it's desired.
BETA PHOTO: Rounding the prow and dropping down into the hand ...
Comments on Travels With Charlie Add Comment
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By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

If you continue up and right from the big ledge you end up on, the rock quality deteriorates into piles of boulders that don't seem too safe. The direct start is fun, but again, you get into rock of horrible quality at the top as you meet "Travels". It's easy to bail after just doing the first pitch by climbing to the belay ledge where the anchors for "Texas" are, building an anchor, bringing up the second, and then rapping from the "Texas" anchors.

  • EDIT* Actually did the second pitch today and it was quite the experience! There's good pro as you make the "wild move" around the prow, and the exposure is unrivaled compared to any "5.7" I've ever been on....