P1 - Start the same as Easy to Remember, then go up a right-angling ramp past a ledge to a belay behind a large boulder.
P1 Variation - Do a more direct finger crack start that meets up with the right-angling ramp (5.9).
P2 - Traverses to the left on a sloping ledge and moves around a corner.
The start is the same as that of Easy To Remember. To the right of Texas Sucks and left of Apple Cider.
Standard East A rack.
BETA PHOTO: Traveling with Charlie around the super exposed pr...
Mike travels to the anchor in the cave at the top ...
BETA PHOTO: Rounding the prow and dropping down into the hand ...
|By Dylan Weldin|
From: Austin, Texas
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
If you continue up and right from the big ledge you end up on, the rock quality deteriorates into piles of boulders that don't seem too safe. The direct start is fun, but again, you get into rock of horrible quality at the top as you meet "Travels". It's easy to bail after just doing the first pitch by climbing to the belay ledge where the anchors for "Texas" are, building an anchor, bringing up the second, and then rapping from the "Texas" anchors.
- EDIT* Actually did the second pitch today and it was quite the experience! There's good pro as you make the "wild move" around the prow, and the exposure is unrivaled compared to any "5.7" I've ever been on....