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 ADVANCED
Apple Cider
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Apple Cider T 
Birthday Crack T 
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 
Chingadero S 
Contortionist T 
Corrections, The T,S 
Demolition Woman T 
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 
Easy To Remember T 
Green Puke T 
Heros Are Hard To Find T 
Matrix, The S 
One Man Sex Party S 
Pandora T 
Punta Magna T 
Slaves, The T 
Sweeney's Special T 
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 
Texas Sucks T 
Ticket to New Zealand T 
Valhalla T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Michael Borga & ?
Page Views: 1,049
Submitted By: eDixon on Jun 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: "Charlie" beta in blue. End pitch 1 behind a boul...

Description 

P1 - start the same as Easy to Remember, then go up a right-angling ramp past a ledge to a belay behind a large boulder.

P1 Variation - do a more direct finger crack start that meets up with the right-angling ramp (5.9).

P2 - traverses to the left on a sloping ledge and moves around a corner.

Per Michael Borga: the line shown and listed here is what we called "Charlie's Indirect!"

"Travels with Charlie" went straight up and over the boulder where the first belay station is achieved. We called the p1 variation in the description "Charlie's Direct".


Location 

The start is the same as that of Easy To Remember. To the right of Texas Sucks and left of Apple Cider.


Protection 

Standard East A rack.



Photos of Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) Slideshow Add Photo
Traveling with Charlie around the super exposed prow. A good nut placement keeps you from pendulum-ing back into the wall below your belayer.
BETA PHOTO: Traveling with Charlie around the super exposed pr...
Mike travels to the anchor in the cave at the top of P1.
Mike travels to the anchor in the cave at the top ...
Rounding the prow and dropping down into the hand crack at the top of "Birthday Crack" for a rest. Good pro where it's desired.
BETA PHOTO: Rounding the prow and dropping down into the hand ...
Comments on Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dylan Weldin
From: Austin, Texas
Apr 23, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

If you continue up and right from the big ledge you end up on, the rock quality deteriorates into piles of boulders that don't seem too safe. The direct start is fun, but again, you get into rock of horrible quality at the top as you meet "Travels". It's easy to bail after just doing the first pitch by climbing to the belay ledge where the anchors for "Texas" are, building an anchor, bringing up the second, and then rapping from the "Texas" anchors.

  • EDIT* Actually did the second pitch today and it was quite the experience! There's good pro as you make the "wild move" around the prow, and the exposure is unrivaled compared to any "5.7" I've ever been on....

By Michael Borga
Aug 18, 2014

The line shown and listed here is actually what we called "Charlie's Indirect!"
"Travels with Charlie" actually went straight up and over the boulder where the first belay station is achieved. We called the p1 variation in the description "Charlie's Direct".