Travels With Charley  5.8- R

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 240 feet Consensus:  5.8- [details] FA:  Dave Ingalls and Charlie Bookman (1968) Submitted By:  Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Location 

At the large orange left-facing corner just left of Strictly From Nowhere.

Description 

The R section is really not too bad (some loose rock that can be avoided), and the rest of the climb is actually quite nice. The crux is similar to Moonlight -- a somewhat blind step around a bulge.

Pitch 1 is also in the Williams' guide as the start to Oscar and Charlie and can be used to bypass slow parties on, or as an alternate start to, Strictly From Nowhere.

P1 - Climb the orange corner to a bulge, surmount it (crux) and continue to top of corner, then step right up to a small ledge. Belay above or near a pine tree to continue with Strictly From Nowhere or the "Oscar and Charlie" link-up; or continue up to the base of an arching left-facing corner (for Travels).

P2 - Climb past the white flakes to a large overhang. Traverse right (crux) past loose rock (airy) onto the face, then up a short right-facing corner and then a left-facing corner to overhangs. Move right around the hangs and up a bulging face to the right side of a long overhang. Climb it, then up to a belay/rap tree on the GT ledge.

P3 - Climb the crack to a ledge, then up a nice easy face to a large ledge another short headwall. Up this to the top. This pitch is actually very nice.

Descend via the bolted Strictly From Nowhere rappel line.

Protection 

Standard Gunks Rack.