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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Travels With Charley 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Ingalls and Charlie Bookman (1968)
Page Views: 732
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Location 

At the large orange left-facing corner just left of Strictly From Nowhere.


Description 

The R section is really not too bad (some loose rock that can be avoided), and the rest of the climb is actually quite nice. The crux is similar to Moonlight -- a somewhat blind step around a bulge.

Pitch 1 is also in the Williams' guide as the start to Oscar and Charlie and can be used to bypass slow parties on, or as an alternate start to, Strictly From Nowhere.

P1 - Climb the orange corner to a bulge, surmount it (crux) and continue to top of corner, then step right up to a small ledge. Belay above or near a pine tree to continue with Strictly From Nowhere or the "Oscar and Charlie" link-up; or continue up to the base of an arching left-facing corner (for Travels).

P2 - Climb past the white flakes to a large overhang. Traverse right (crux) past loose rock (airy) onto the face, then up a short right-facing corner and then a left-facing corner to overhangs. Move right around the hangs and up a bulging face to the right side of a long overhang. Climb it, then up to a belay/rap tree on the GT ledge.

P3 - Climb the crack to a ledge, then up a nice easy face to a large ledge another short headwall. Up this to the top. This pitch is actually very nice.

Descend via the bolted Strictly From Nowhere rappel line.


Protection 

Standard Gunks Rack.



Comments on Travels With Charley Add Comment
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By Ross Fadely
Apr 4, 2008

Linking the first pitch into Strickly's crux is definitely the way to go!

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 10, 2011

I agree, it's a great link up