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 ADVANCED
Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arrowhead 
Frictionite S 
Mists of Mordor S 
Staff 
Trash Crack T 

Trash Crack 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: All Year
Page Views: 405
Submitted By: Travis R. Thompson on Sep 30, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Trash Crack.

Description 

Eds. This is a combination of two descriptions. The second one is deleted to reduce redundancy in the database.

There is a "half" of a crack between Mists of Mordor and The Practice Wall. Climb up the crack for about 12-15 feet and there is a place for a descent stopper (one of the better I got). From here, I went right on to the face I thought it was easier than continuing up the crack proper. Either way this is no-man's land as there is nowhere else to get any gear until you are about 35 feet off the ground and looking at a certain ground-fall. (No Bull-Shit!)
This is where it got interesting I had to put in a completely (all feel) blind stopper while standing in one of the harder spots of the route (probably just nerves). From here, continue straight up the crack where you can actually get a couple decent pieces in before the anchor. I left two stoppers for an anchor, but you might want to bring some webbing to equalize them better.

Per Tymothe Meskel: I don't really know what to say about this route. It sucks, it dangerous, the gear sucks, and the entire time Buzz was on the route I thought he was going to deck out.

That being said, sometimes partners should listen to each other.

Your first piece good piece is about 15 feet up. After that, good luck.

PS: If someone anchors this, can I have my nuts and sling back?

Location 

Down from Half Pipe, up from the Practice Wall. It's the same pull out as for Shark's Fin Wall.

Protection 

Nothing but Stoppers, a lot of them were bigger, but one was a #4 turned sideways, as were the rest because the placements were so shallow.

Per Tymothe Meskel: Trad: mostly nuts with a number one cam.


Photos of Trash Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Bomber piece, man!
Bomber piece, man!

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By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Sep 30, 2007

I wouldn't even get on this thing unless you have a really strong head about you and feel really good with the grade.

P.S.- Yes I had recently read the article "Superchoss" in Climbing Magazine.
By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Oct 11, 2007

I was looking at it and was thinking that you might not actually hit the ground if you fell from your second piece, but you would be really close and I wouldn't recommend trying it and finding out.
By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Oct 11, 2007

This is the same as "Trash Crack" I guess I forgot to tell Tim I posted it, anyways I was looking a little closer at the picture and I don't know that you would actually hit the ground, but it would be close.