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Trapps Bouldering

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Andrew Area 
Boxcar Area 
Doug's Roof 
Herman Boulder 
Kama Sutra Area 
Keyhole Cliff area 
Nameless Area 
Pebbles Boulders 
Steel Bridge Boulders 
Suzie A Boulders 
Uberfall problems 
Wawarsing Parking Lot Boulders 

Trapps Bouldering Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 41.7368, -74.194 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 63,453
Administrators: JSH, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Baraff on Aug 8, 2009
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Kevin Dumapit reaching for the lip on Andrew's Roo...

Description 

The Trapps, in addition to boasting more than 500 trad routes (detailed here), are home to more than 250 documented boulder problems varying in difficulty from V0 to V13 which scale and traverse the hard quartz conglomerate of the area. The only published bouldering guide for the area is Greene and Russo’s Bouldering in the Shawangunks. A complete list of all posted problems sorted by quality can be found here.

Getting There 

There are several different areas each containing interesting problems along the Undercliff road. From South to North, as you walk up the carriage way from the Trapps bride towards Skytop you pass the Steel Bridge Area (Steel Bridge boulders, Terrace boulders), Keyhole, Uberfall Area (Doug's Roof, Uberfall problems, Suzie A boulders), Early Trapps areas (Pebbles, Kama Sutra, Stairway Boulders), 50 yard line, End of the Trapps areas (Andrew, Nameless, Corridor, Boxcar) and Sleepy Hollow boulders. There is one area not accessed from the carriage road, the Wawarsing Parking Lot Boulders, which are located near the Wawarsing parking lot down the East Trapps Connector Trail (AKA The Stairmaster) from the carriage road.

Guide Books 

Bouldering in the Shawangunks, Second Edition, Ivan A Greene and Marc E Russo, Jefe Publication, 2003.

A Temporary Note 

Hey everyone, I’m much more of a trad climber than a boulderer, but I’m going to be spending lots of time bouldering in the area--in between diaper changes-- and thought that it would be a good opportunity to start the ball rolling on listing problems on Mountain Project. I’ll attempt to get most of the areas and sub areas up as I have an opportunity to climb them but I’ll only post problems that I’ve completed which means that initially there is going to be a lot of easy stuff. This is an open invitation to anybody and everybody to help me construct and flesh out this area. I’m going to try to stick to the organization that is used in Boulding in the Shawangunks to make it as useful a supplement as possible. Please feel free to PM me or call me out in forums with criticism and corrections. I have no FA information other than what can be implied from the problem names. I’d love to correctly list all of this, so please let me know if you have it. Thanks for you patience.

A Note About Grades 

While grades are certainly not the most important thing about climbing, they are an important part of having a worthwhile guidebook. It's my feeling that the printed grades in Bouldering in the Shawangunks are all over the place. It would be great if everyone who ticks a problem took the time to put in an estimate of grade and quality as well. Even if you agree with the current grade, please put in your two cents, and hopefully we can arrive at a more accurate consensus.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.1 miles from here

109 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',39],['2 Stars',45],['1 Star',17],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',51],['V2-3',40],['V4-5',9],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Trapps Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Trapps Bouldering:
Boulder of the Gods   V0- 4-     Boulder, 15'   Steel Bridge Boulders
Keyhole Crack Right   V0 4     Boulder, 12'   Keyhole Cliff area
Backside Problem   V0 4     Boulder, 8'   Nameless Area
Clune Crank   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Keyhole Cliff area
Suzie A   V1 5     Boulder, 13'   Suzie A Boulders
Nameless Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder, 18'   Nameless Area
Dislocator Roof   V2 5+     Boulder, 12'   Pebbles Boulders
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation)   V2 5+     Boulder, 17'   Keyhole Cliff area
Nameless Traverse II   V2 5+     Boulder, 25'   Nameless Area
Baby Hole   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   Boxcar Area
The Lorax   V3+ 6A+     Boulder, 8'   Steel Bridge Boulders
Gill's Double Clutch   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Doug's Roof
Andrew Boulder Problem   V4 6B     Boulder   Andrew Area
The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Route)   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Keyhole Cliff area
Gill Pinch Roof   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Keyhole Cliff area
Black Boulder Problem   V5 6C     Boulder   Pebbles Boulders
The Buddha   V7 7A+     Boulder   Andrew Area
New Pair of Glasses   V7 7A+     Boulder, 30'   Steel Bridge Boulders
Box Car Arete   V8 7B     Boulder, 8'   Boxcar Area
The Illustrious Buddha   V8 7B     Boulder   Andrew Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Trapps Bouldering

Featured Route For Trapps Bouldering
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gill Crack (V2): Start at the horizontal and w...

Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) V2 5+  NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area
Starting from the low horizontal, undercling, jam and lunge your way up the left-arching crack at the far right-hand side of the keyhole cliff face. Holds continue above the crack and on the right-hand face to a dark hold 17 feet off the deck. Traverse off right and down climb the slabby face (very carefully) or drop to your pad. It's done. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Photos of Trapps Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ann Marie bouldering Andrew's problem in the Gunks
Ann Marie bouldering Andrew's problem in the Gunks
Rock Climbing Photo: Dylan bouldering on Buddha in the Gunks
Dylan bouldering on Buddha in the Gunks
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin Dumapit bouldering Boxcar Traverse in the Gu...
Kevin Dumapit bouldering Boxcar Traverse in the Gu...

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