Trapped Like a Rat
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A tough route for the grade, with two strenuous cruxes; hand-jamming skills are useful. The nice big ledge gives you a chance to catch your breath following the initial section, but get some pro in soon afterward or you'll deck on this ledge if you take a fall at the second crux.
Starting below a left-slanting crack, follow the crack up to an overhang. Pull past the overhang (crux 1) and rock up onto the big ledge. Using a knife-edge on the right, layback up to tiered overhangs; power through the overhangs (crux 2) and balance your way up to a stable stance before moving up the left-facing corner and face up to the top.
Starts just right of Harvard, almost directly across from the Uberpooper.
Medium gear up to blue Camalot; some fixed pins. Belay/anchor tree at the top, or walk easily back to the Uberfall downclimb.
|Comments on Trapped Like a Rat
|By Dana Bartlett|
Oct 1, 2008
After climbing the arete, the protection for the overhanging section is abundant and easy to place.
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 1, 2010
tough climb for a 5.7. Actually, for me it was more awkard than hard. It looks like it should be pretty easy, but, I found many of the moves awkard. The knife edge is a kick, it's an easy move with no pro. Once up on the fin you can plug gear. The top is deceptively harder than it looks like it should be. Great gear all the way up, other than the knife edge (gear at your feet).
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
The first crux is a bit harder than I expected at 5.7 but perhaps I missed something. The second half is a blast. Much better than I expected. No slings on the tree at the top anymore so its a walk off.
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 6, 2013
Slings back on the tree as of 10/5/2013