Trapeze  5.11d

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Type:  Trad, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  John Steiger, John Jurashek, 1983 12c/d finish: Bob Murray, 1984, Submitted By:  John Steiger on Sep 4, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

JJ and I worked on this for a full day, from the ground up, taking numerous falls and lowering to the ground. JJ unlocked the sequence but the no-falls lead fell to me, and we named it Trapeze for the wild, sideways swinging fall onto a fixed pin if you blew the end of the crux section. We knew it wasn’t ever going to be a classic, but it was fine, hard, exciting trad lead. Two years later, the incredible Bob Murray top-roped a line that started on Trapeze, then, where the original line traversed left to a hanging corner, went straight up, producing another Beaver Wall tips shredder at 5.12c/d.

Later, apparently in 1986, someone decided to bolt Bob’s toprope problem, resulting in two bolts on our original line (the second apparently replacing the fixed pin), and Hidetaka Suzuki – according to EFR’s 2000 guide -- got the first redpoint. Fast forward to 1993, someone else bolts up another sport route between the original Trapeze and Bob’s now-bolted line, calling it Easy on the Beaver, and – from what I can tell – further screwing up the trad lead.

To savor some of the original experience, using trad gear, pretend the first bolt isn’t there and climb up to the second, clip it, then traverse left and up into an obvious hanging corner (ignoring the bolts on Easy) and follow this line to the Alley Oop ledge. For Bob’s line, continue more or less straight up from the second bolt past two more (I think) to the ledge.

Location 

The next route left of Climb with a View.

Protection 

Standard rack to maybe a 2" cam.