Trapeze 5.11 PG13
| 711 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Ken Cook, FFA 1976 |
| Submitted By: | gimmesome roy on Aug 24, 2008 |
| |
Add Photo  Printer View
Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description Start as Exit Stage Left but right at the roof, take the roof crack out and move into the dihedral above. Pro in the initial crack will create rope drag, even with long slings.
Location Walkoff to the climbers right.
Protection No bolts, I used an offset nut at the lip the anchors at the top prohibit toproping this climb due to where they`re placed.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 1, 2008
| There is a rap anchor, so this climb can be TR'd. You will need a way to extend the anchor 15+' over the lip of the climb. The crack can still pinch the rope so be careful.
Thanks Mark W for the beta out there. |
By rocky233
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.11c
| This is a great Trad climb. I'd even give it 4 stars by MG standards. Its damn hard and even harder for short people. Also this climb is probably the best clean aid practice climb at Mission Gorge. Great practice for leader and follower. |
By gimmesome roy
From: alpine, ca
Sep 2, 2008
| no problem schlocker, I still recomend the lead on this gem, just be proficient at gear leads, it takes bomber gear but it has to be at the right spots to keep the rope from getting sucked into the crack. imho this route should not be obscure, its one of the best at mg. |
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 28, 2012
| We TR'ed this (def want to bring some static line to extend the anchor 15' or so over the lip.
Outrageous climb (although I think I'd be scared as anything trying to lead it; some of the positions in the dihedral were a bit desperate; you'd need small stuff for that and protecting the roof if you want to keep the good hands open). Fun moves to get up into the dihedral past the roof. Reminds me of wayyy harder version of Rectum Roof. |
|
RSS Feed
243 more...
