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Transmission 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,473
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Tavis almost through the second pitch of Transmiss...

Description 

This is one of the most obvious lines out here and a very fun route. It follows a vertical crack for 4 pitches. This route is in the shade all day.

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of Transmission Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux time!  Photo by Nick S.
Crux time! Photo by Nick S.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting to the ledge on the top of P1.  Photo by N...
Getting to the ledge on the top of P1. Photo by N...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin starting out on Transmition
Austin starting out on Transmition
Rock Climbing Photo: That yellow lichen sure was slippery! Tavis chugs ...
That yellow lichen sure was slippery! Tavis chugs ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tavis cranks through the crux of the first pitch o...
Tavis cranks through the crux of the first pitch o...
Rock Climbing Photo: On the second pitch of Transmission.  Fantastic cl...
On the second pitch of Transmission. Fantastic cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking right at Transmission on the Main Wall - n...
BETA PHOTO: looking right at Transmission on the Main Wall - n...
Rock Climbing Photo: In the business of Transmission.
In the business of Transmission.
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin making it look easy
Austin making it look easy
Rock Climbing Photo: AJ 3/4 up Pitch 2.
AJ 3/4 up Pitch 2.

Comments on Transmission Add Comment
Show which comments
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Oct 21, 2006

I would bring a #6 friend or similar for the wide finish to pitch 3.
By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

My favorite pitch at ISO to date! I only led pitch 1 & 2 linked, but they are both fantastic in different ways. P1 is big moves between jugs; well protected fun with 3 bolts and a couple of gear placements to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor; 5.10b.

P2 is money! Thin crack climbing and finger locks protected by nothing bigger than a .5 C4. Steep and continuous moves with good rests when you really need them. 3 bolt anchor; 5.11a/b. Protects perfectly with a set of C3's and a few small C4's. Link P1 w/ P2 for a 110' of absolutely great climbing.
By Tim H.
From: Scottsdale, AZ
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Linked all 3 pitches into 1 220' mega pitch the other day with Nick W. What a great way to do this climb if you have a 70m rope. You really get just about everything in one pitch. Fun face climbing to start; then thin fingers to all sorts of crack climbing that ends with offwidth at the top.

This was the first time I have done the 3rd pitch and it's highly recommended. It's super fun hand jamming in a corner and gets very overhanging quickly. A few face holds inside and outside the upper OW crack keep the difficulty tame.

My rack for the linking the whole thing was 2x blue MC through #1 C4, 1x #2-#5 C4. With about 12-14 slings, there's no drag. Sling a tree on top for the anchor.

We rapped the route from there, left a sling and a biner around the tree. Tie knots, it's a free hanging rappel to the top of the 2nd pitch anchors.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 1, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Impressive link up on a fun climb, Tim!
By Austin Sobotka
From: Tucson, AZ
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Number six is not necessary if you are comfortable on 5.9 offwidth. even still, where the six would be placed (the last ten feet) you have a perfect placement for a number 1 camalot at your feet. Granted some may very well want to take the six, but if you do not have one and are comfortable running it out ten feet, go for it. Also the second picth has lots of nice constrictions, so bring those nuts.
By Nicholas Withem
From: Tempe, AZ
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Offsets would be nice for the 2nd pitch. A flaring crack presents a bit of a challenge for gear placement.
By KevinD
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 8, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Stoppers very useful on crux pitch. You can get away with a 5 camalot on the 3rd pitch but a 6 would be ideal. If you have neither it's really only a 10 foot runout.

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