Transgression 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Neil Cannon and crew, 1985 |
| Submitted By: | Hank the Tank on Mar 8, 2007 |
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Description Seriously people, one of the best cracks of its grade anywhere! Climb almost all of Death and Transfiguration to where the D&T crack cuts up at the end, set pro and crank right into the OBVIOUS right-angling crack. Hand jams, fist jams and arm-blasting underclinging gets you to the freaky "lip encounter" finish. Pro is great if you're honed enough to hangout and place it. You will not be disappointed, I assure you.
Location Green Mountain Pinnacle. A continuation of Death and Transfiguration. A 4-star route in its own right. Rap from the belay bolts to the ground with 1 rope.
Protection All the gear you need for D&T. Slings and draws along with a couple of cams in the Aliens thru #2 Camalot range - hint, hint. 2 manky old fixed wired stoppers are also encountered(if you were bold you could just clip these 2 fixed pieces and leave the cams). Belay at the 2 fat rap bolts on top.
| Comments on Transgression |
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By Colin Simon From: Boulder, CO Sep 29, 2010
| The finish is wild and orgasmic! |
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