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BETA PHOTO: Granite Huecoes!
This route is on the north-facing wall across from the big red tower. The wall is easily identified by a giant detached block sitting on top of it (about the size of a semi), and by its beautiful overhanging upper tier, which is riddled with cracks and huecos.
Transgression is all the way on the left side of the wall. It starts in a shallow dihedral, and then jogs slightly right until you reach a rest under the overhanging upper tier.Follow the most obvious crack straight up the overhang on finger locks and huecoes. Anchors exist about 90 feet up.
There are lots of cracks in the upper tier, so a myriad of possibilities exist for variations.
This is a great wall to climb on when it is hot. It sees sun only briefly in the morning in the middle of summer. Otherwise, it is in permanent shade.
Standard rack - make sure you have 1 or 2 small cams to protect the crux moves near the top.
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Interesting route with a variety of climbing styles and rock features. There are several jugs up high that are so monstrously huge that it feels spooky to yard on them. A person breaking into leading 10a on gear will get their money's worth on this one.