Climb the overhanging rock following cracks and horizontals past a small roof and up a face to the top. The route was originally lead on gear, but was accidentally retro-bolted. Great moves, strong lead if done trad.
Just to the left of Screamer Crack.
5 bolts, shuts.
Jun 15, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
If climbing as a sport route, it may be prudent to carry a few finger sized cams to back up a few of the bolts -- some did not look completely sound as of winter 2010.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 21, 2013
Andrew Barry first ascended this line ground up, without bolts in September 1985. At the time it was a very bold ascent, and I suspect would still be today.
In 1991 visiting climbers bolted it, mistaking it for a first ascent. The locals were pissed, but decided to let it be, as no one was lining up to attempt it as a traditionally protected climb due to the scare factor. Get your retro trad on and give it a whirl without bolts if you so dare!