start in the same flake system as inferno and move up and left at a ledge aiming for a thin finger crack. Jam the crack until its end and step left on to a small corner with a thin crack. protect, step up and commit to 5.10 moves over a bulge to easier ground to the trees.
starts directly to the left of the second pitch handcrack on inferno on the ledge above the tranquility slab (cold day in hell, hotter than hell). Rappel from trees on summit.
micro cams-.5-#3 cams, nuts and brassies.
I found .3's and .4's protected the crux well, but...
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Nov 22, 2009
I was thinking of adding this one as it makes a great link up with Cold Day or Hotter then Hell, but I hadn't done the whole route. Has any one else done the whole route or just this pitch? Is that all that's done now a days?
From: Gilmanton, NH
Nov 23, 2009
I know the original first pitch climbs a wandering, not-so protection friendly 5.7 (ledgefall potential) line in the space between HTH and Cold Day in Hell. This also is where the most common decent route for the South Buttress falls....which is why it's often avoided.
Also, it's possible to climb the last pitch of inferno instead of the heady .10c last pitch of tranquility...which seems to be the most popular option.
|By burlap submariner|
Feb 24, 2010
If you dont do the headwall section of tranquility and escape right into inferno its like 9+/10a, the headwall is part of the route to the top of the cliff.
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 26, 2013
i linked the lower pitches of tranquility to inferno the other day. basically went up to the first bolt of Hotter than Hell and worked left to a block with a 5" crack. layback this into a 20' left facing corner that takes good gear. another nice layback leads to a small ledge and a 20' traverse (right) to a finger crack up through a V slot and a belay directly underneath Inferno money pitch. some PG climbing with the above mentioned ledge fall potential. but a fun couple pitches.
|By Eric Chabot|
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Awesome route! Must do at the grade. Well protected, perfect fingerlocks. For full value, jam in some small cams (c3s) and crank the awesome direct finish through the bulge at the top on (mostly) positive holds.