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Tranchant - Right Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Tranchant - Right

L › R R › L A › Z

	Boson de la Merci S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Chipola T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Comte de Montecristo S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Fakir S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Ki L'Uru Kru S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	L'Évasion S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Lavement Double S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Le chateau d'If T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Malédiction du Tranchant S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mercedes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mystère S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Patof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pleurotte S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Pourriture S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pépé Rodriguez S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Simonize S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Sit down King Kong S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tonerre de Brest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Vache sauvage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Waltz S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Zumanity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Elevation:	1,419 ft
GPS:	46.29168, -73.85248 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Luc-514 on Jun 24, 2014
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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME Details

This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).

Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.

This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
fqme.qc.ca

Description

Left Area
Middle Area
Right Area

Welcome to some of the harder routes at the cliff. Many routes start from the top of a ledge where a fall could be pretty nasty, many routes are setup that stick clipping the first bolt is essential, a couple cams in the ledge could also be helpful to protect the belayer.
Most of the routes in this sector are often wet in the spring.

Bienvenu aux voies les plus difficiles de Tranchant. Plusieurs des voies partent du haut d'une vire d’où une chute serait assez néfaste, plusieurs des voies ont été équipé pour nécessiter un stick clip, une couple de cams dans la vire peuvent aussi être de mise pour l'assureur.
Plusieurs des voies ici peuvent rester mouillées longtemps au printemps.

Getting There

Once you get to the base of the wall, head right and walk for about 100 meters.
The routes start on the left end of a raised ledge accessible from the gully near Mystère.

Une fois arrivé à la falaise, traversez à droite passé la section centrale.
Les voies commencent sur l'extrémité gauche d'une vire. On accède à la vire dans un éboulis vers la voie Mystère.

Routes

Zumanity, 5.11b, S
Pourriture, 5.10a/b
Tonerre de Brest, 5.9, S
Lavement Double, 5.10, S
Mystère, 5.8, S
Malédiction du Tranchant, 5.11+, S
Vache sauvage, 5.12-, S
Patof, 5.10, M
var Pades, 5.11-, S
Mercedes, 5.11-, M
var Mertof, 5.10d, M
Le chateau d'If, 5.10-, T
L'Évasion, 5.11d/12a, S
Chipola, 5.11+, M
Boson de la Merci, 5.13-, S
Simonize, 5.12, S
Comte de Montecristo, 5.12-, S
Fakir, Projet fermé/closed
Pépé Rodriguez, 5.13a, S
Waltz, 5.12a, S
Ki L'Uru Kru, 5.12bc, S
Pleurotte, 5.11+, S

21 Total Climbs

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Location:	Tranchant - Right Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Tranchant - Right

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 22 ● Mystère Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 34 ● Tonerre de Brest Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 9 ● Le chateau d'If Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 33 ● Pourriture Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 37 ● Lavement Double Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 22 ● Patof Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 22 ● Zumanity Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 18 ● Mercedes Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 24 ● Malédiction du Tranchant Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 8 ● Pleurotte Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● Waltz Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 15 ● Comte de Montecristo Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 9 ● Simonize Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 7 ● Vache sauvage Sport