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Mental Training

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By mikejohnson1
Sep 13, 2009

So I know about hangboard exercises for your tendon strength but what about training designed to make you more bold?

"The first part of this regiment will help you to gain confidence in your gear placements. Find a solid blue alien placement and proceed to climb above it and shove off from the wall. Provided the piece holds, do two sets of ten whips in this manner".


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By JacobD
From Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 14, 2009
On a delightfully exposed traverse on the North Ridge of Mount Stuart.

The book The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner does a great job addressing this subject. The author also teaches courses about the mental aspect of climbing.

http://www.warriorsway.com/training/List.aspx


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By Leo Zacharias
From Denver CO
Sep 14, 2009
nyc

It helps to fall a lot when you are climbing ... Don't be afraid to whip if you know you have a clean fall and good pro , force yourself to go for it...
I guess that's ultimately why you need mental strength , to go for a crux when you have past the last pro...


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By Tim McCabe
Sep 14, 2009

I remember some thing I read when I first got in to climbing.

"In the USSR at Olympic training camp athletes were required to think (visualize) about their sport 6-8 hours per day, work outs were 4-6 hours, and then sleep for 10-12 hours".

Check your local library I bet you can come up with something use full.

If you want to gain confidence in your placements take up aid climbing (rather then jumping off) it's easier on the gear (tho not that easy) but you will learn what doesn't hold when you take to bouncing on it.


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By Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2009
Chris setting up the rappel in the South-East Gully of Arrowhead.  If anyone cleans that stopper and pin, I'd be glad to have it back.

The rock warriors way has some great insight, but for me it boils down to one simple exercise that I try and pactice just like any other exercise.

At least once per week, find a safe route that is at or just slightly above your ability level. Put yourself in a situation where you think you are going to fall, but you go for the move anyway. Sometimes you will fall and you will likely remind yourself that falling isn't really that big of a deal. Other times you will somehow stick the move and realize that your body is stronger then your self doubting brain has been telling you. Both outcomes are important, so it doesn't really matter which one happens.


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By Matt Toensing
From gunnison co
Sep 14, 2009

Highline Slacklining.

Everytime I get on a highline I get so scared I can't wait to go climbing.


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By Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Sep 14, 2009

practice falling in the gym helps a lot. here is a very good practice video.


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