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Core Strength

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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Oct 27, 2009
Hiking

What do you all find for best all around core strength, i live in a small apt so weights arent possible, and im poor so nothing expensive. what are you ideas.


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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
Oct 27, 2009

yoga


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By Jeff F.
From Black Hawk, CO
Oct 27, 2009
Raaaaaarrrrr!!111!!!!1!1eleven!!11111!!

I've been thinking on trying this out:

Golds Gym 5-in-1

Kinda in the same boat as you.


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By J. Albers
From California
Oct 27, 2009
Bucky

Lots and lots of cheap beer.


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By jmac
Oct 27, 2009

Climbing.


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By Max Tepfer
From Eugene, OR
Oct 27, 2009

I've been doing a workout on gymnastic rings for about two years now that is extremely core/shoulder/arm intensive and have experienced noticeable gains. The rings are pretty expensive, but I know people that have crafted their own together for pretty darn cheap. It helps if you have somewhere with a high ceiling and plenty of ground surface area to do the exercises.


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By Rick Blair
From Denver, Co
Oct 27, 2009

Out of shape right now but when I had a good core it was from doing hanging exercises, bars, rings, whatever.... that's the way to do it. Checkout kipping pullups.


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By Clyde
Oct 27, 2009

Is core strength limiting your climbing performance? Probably not. As jmac said, climbing itself is excellent for core strength. Doing more specific core work is most likely a waste of time. It gets a lot of hype...mostly by people who can't even name the muscles or tell you their function.

But if you insist, a stability ball works well for this. Fitness rings work well too (cheaper than actual gymnastic rings, see ringtraining.com). A great training system for those with limited space and standard ceiling height is called the TRX Trainer--a little pricey but brutally effective. Avoid crunches on the floor, kipping pullups (really dumb), be wary of pilates and yoga unless you find a smarter than average instructor.


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By furrymurry
From Washington D.C.
Oct 27, 2009
Yours truly coming out the first roof of Yowsah, The Hole, NRG.

Clyde wrote:
Avoid ... kipping pullups (really dumb)


Well for saying that I would turn that adjective back on yourself.

Rings or the TRX system are probably your best bet. I like rings, but I also have access to a larger breadth of equipment. If you are limited to one thing, maybe the TRX is the way to go.


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By Evan Simons
From Boulder CO
Oct 27, 2009

Lots of situps, I know it sounds stupidly simple, but 100+ situps a day (without your feet wedged under something) is as core as it gets. I have serious back problems and have tried countless things to help it and increase my core strength, and nothing beats the classic. Also, metolius rock rings can be had for like $30.00 now? Hang those from a door frame, lock off, and plank yourself as best you can and do leg and knee raises from this position. You can get pretty fancy with core workouts, but keeping it simple can help you avoid injury, and in my opinion works as well as any contraption or contortion.


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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
Oct 27, 2009

Clyde wrote:
Is core strength limiting your climbing performance? Probably not.

dont listen to that. core strength is key to hard climbing (aside from better footwork)... especially overhanging stuff.

besides, training your core properly doesnt hurt either... will also safeguard against back injury. be extra careful of your shoulders though if working rings/pullups. this will sneak up on you before you know it. a stronger core keeps you from hangin out in your shoulder sockets.


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By Aaron M
From Arvada, CO
Oct 27, 2009
Me

Crossfit helped me a lot! I did it all last winter and I could tell a big difference this year esp. when in a chimney or something funky. I did it at MBS Crossfit in Broomfield but you can find the workouts online it you are short on cash.


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By Mike Pharris
From Longmont, CO
Oct 27, 2009
Belay on Cadillac Crag 6/6/09

EVS wrote:
Lots of situps, I know it sounds stupidly simple, but 100+ situps a day (without your feet wedged under something) is as core as it gets. I have serious back problems and have tried countless things to help it and increase my core strength, and nothing beats the classic. Also, metolius rock rings can be had for like $30.00 now? Hang those from a door frame, lock off, and plank yourself as best you can and do leg and knee raises from this position. You can get pretty fancy with core workouts, but keeping it simple can help you avoid injury, and in my opinion works as well as any contraption or contortion.


ditto - simple is better - consistency is the key. Set a schedule - at least every other day and vary the workout. Variety keeps you from getting board and it also allows the body to recruit different muscles for the various exercises. The great thing about building a varied core workout is that you can do it without any equipment really - maybe a couple of lighter weight dumbbells is all. Body weight alone is enough to get a great workout. Search some of the fitness oriented websites and you can find a whole slew of core workout regimens.


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By Paul Hunnicutt
From Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2009
Half Dome

Don't ignore the core! Clyde is completely wrong, IMHO. Maybe it works for him, but most climbers would highly benefit from core work. Especially for injury prevention. Especially if you aren't 17 anymore.

I used to lift weights through the winter and do a lot of core work twice a week, then during the season perhaps at the end of a workout for 30 min. once a week. Last year I ignored all of that, because climbing hits everything right? Well I had a serious lower back injury, missed the prime alpine season and 4 months overall.

If you can get a simple bar - tie some milk cartons full of sand or anything heavy and do deadlifts. Awesome for the core. If you can take it over your head in a clean and jerk even better. Obviously real weights would be best for this.

Also you can do back extensions (essentially reverse sit-ups) or "good mornings" with anything heavy.

Sit-ups are easy, also hit the lower stomach by hanging in a pull up position and lifting your legs upwards....can also be done lying down with your legs off a bed or bench. Also situps with a twisting motion are great.

you can do a lot with a heavy ball if you get one also. twisting, throwing, pressing, etc.

If you start googling core workouts you'll find a lot online I bet.


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By AJS
From Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2009
In the sea of Cortez - Baja California, Mexico

Mike Pharris wrote:
you can do it without any equipment really


Yup!

I chopped about a cord of wood last weekend and can still feel it in my core...I bet you could simulate this pretty easily by swinging something heavy like a sledge


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By Rob Kepley
From Westminster,CO
Oct 27, 2009
Spearhead summit

WiledHorse wrote:
core strength is key to hard climbing

Yep, so true


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By jhump
Oct 29, 2009

Hang from bar or use underarm stirrups, point toes and keep legs straight. Hold for 5 count. Do 5 sets of 5. You will be amazed how easy it will be to hang out on very steep terrain.


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By Marc-Andre
From Agassiz, B.C
Oct 31, 2009
Me on a 5.12d roof.. it's harder than a 15 year old boy at a hookers convention. I fell off in the end.

there have been some good suggestions so far.. but....

situps are good but have a limited range of motion and only work a small portion of the core muscle group. So some situps yes, only situps NO.

hang from a bar, tuck your knees into your chest then smoothly rotate into a tucked front lever position with you back parallel to the floor. Lower down and repeat. VERY good for core strength. Eventually work up to full Front Levers, the gneral progression is from tucked lever, advance tucked lever, one leg extended lever, straddle lever, Full Front Lever... then work on holding them and pulling into them. Then you will have unreal core as well as upper body strength.


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By SandMan
From Eagle River, Alaska
Nov 4, 2009

In medical research, when they are modeling lumbar disc herniations, they take a sheep spine and bend it forward over and over again (much like in a situp). After a while, the discs herniate. Situps may be great for your abs, but they are death for your lumbar spine. Some of you younger guys may not have to worry about this, but some of us older guys should beware. There are safer ways to work the core.


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By RoadTripRyan
From Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 4, 2009

Last winter the gym here did a 30 minute Kettlebell class.

Wow! Great for everything! I suspect you can find workouts on youtube. Speaking from experience, start with a reasonably light bell. (20 lbs maybe.)


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By kiamarie
From Pleasant Grove, UT
Nov 9, 2009

I think Metolius Rock Rings or other hanging apparatus' are the way to go. i got my pair for a smooth 25 bucks at my local gym and they're awesome for a killer finger strength workout and just as good for a brilliant core routine doing front levers and such. Core strength is DEFINITELY essential to good climbing, (controlling barn dooring, Swinging out etc...) and rock rings have worked brilliantly for me


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From Jackson Hole, WY
Nov 9, 2009
Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress

Pilates. And it is made all the more enjoyable by being one of the few guys in the studio.


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By Sam Feuerborn
Nov 9, 2009
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09

yoga and swimming have taken me up a couple grades, swimming is great all around cardio, back, shoulders, core etc. come to think of it so is yoga haha


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By Isaac Therneau
From Rochester, MN
Nov 14, 2009
Me with Son of A Great Chimney in the background, shortly after an attempted ascent.

Get a kettlebell. It's an all in one exercise tool and can get you some crazy core strength. I've been using them for over a year in my living room and have noticed a big diffrence in endurance and lower back pain.


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By FA Heelhook
From Hartford, CT
Nov 16, 2009

Max Tepfer wrote:
I've been doing a workout on gymnastic rings for about two years now that is extremely core/shoulder/arm intensive and have experienced noticeable gains. The rings are pretty expensive, but I know people that have crafted their own together for pretty darn cheap. It helps if you have somewhere with a high ceiling and plenty of ground surface area to do the exercises.


My $8 ring solution


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By eliclimbs
From Denver, CO
Nov 16, 2009
Top of Castleton

I second Yoga. Additionally Planks and Bridges (link to pics/instructions) work very well and don't require any equipment


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