||Trad, Aid, Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 500', Grade IV
|Original: ||M4 A0 [details]|
|FA: ||Landon Wiedenman, Paul Rachele - Aug 12, 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Well, it was good after a freak August snowstorm...|
|Page Views: ||1,232|
|Submitted By: ||landongw on Sep 28, 2009|
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BETA PHOTO: Training Wheels as viewed from the Owen Spalding t...
This is a prominent right facing corner/ramp system directly below the Vision Quest Couloir
Move quickly, start in the dark. Make sure it stays frozen, and be off of the Black Ice by the time the circus on the OS starts (tourists trigger a suprising amount of rockfall). We didn't leave any fixed pins, there were a few I probably should have. Particularly, the pin on the crux, as it's the only pro available and is a small incipient crack, it will get destroyed quickly. Take a standard Teton rock rack, an assortment of ice screws and some small pins. This route eats up Knifeblades, you will be glad for them. :)
Sep 28, 2009
The crux is probably the third pitch. We took a long time here, and turns, figuring out some pro through this sketchy slab. Rockfall can be a real hazard on this route as well. Especially, on the approach and the fourth pitch. Again, with the aid of rock shoes or regularly training in your mountain boots one could climb on the ridge to the right and avoid most of the death blocks on the 4th pitch. If anyone repeats this, it would be good to get some consensus on the grade before Renny prints a new book.