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Training teams 1 & 3 for beginners
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By CalStaben
From Louisville, KY
Jun 5, 2012
I'm wondering what people have used to success to train the less-dominant teams of fingers. I've been wanting to get into HIT workouts, but when I began I couldn't do a single exercise with a team other than the 2nd. I'd be very thankful for your help!


By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Jun 6, 2012
Me and Spearhead
Not sure how long you've been climbing but if it's been 3yrs or less, you'd probably be better off consistently devoting 2 days a week to bouldering.
It's just my opinion, but unless you've been climbing consistently for 5 yrs or longer it's not worth the risk of injury to dabble w/ more specifically intense climbing training protocols such as HIT, Campus Boarding or Hang Boards.
If you've got access to a decent wall/gym you'd be better off just logging more hours bouldering if you're interested in more strength... plus it will be climbing specific involving the entire body and not just your hands/arms.
My 2 cents worth,

By Javier L
From Asheville, NC
Jun 6, 2012
Bermuda, DWS
That's good advice from BA. If you've been climbing long enough and plan to proceed then you might need to give the HIT strips a few sessions. I kept a log and my experience went as follows with the 2 finger 3rd team (on the best of 2 sets). Each session was separated by 2-5 days of rest, depending on my schedule. During the first few sessions, I would just hang on the hold after falling off. I think that's one of the instructions given by Eric Horst.

1 - 3 hand moves (Holly shit this is hard!)
2 - 4 hand moves (Damn, I just wasted $300)
3 - 10 hand moves (hold on a second, this might be working)
4 - 9 hand moves (FML, I just got worse!)
5 - 18 hand moves (ah, there it is)
6 - 26 hand moves (okay, it was worth it)

So on and so forth. Now, I'm on my 3rd phase with it and I just managed a session on the 2-finger 3rd team of 24 reps with 18 pounds on my back. Not saying this is for everyone, but it's certainly worked for me.

Another option for you is to consider hangboard training with a counterweight/pulley system to assist on your weaker hand grips.


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