By randy88fj62
Sep 5, 2012
| Looking for an aid climb around 5 to 8 pitches that has a shelf or ledge to sleep on in the middle without a portaledge. This will be a training run for washinton column in two weeks. I checked out gold wall but it looks like the only ledge to sleep on is 8 pitches up and we’re not that fast. I've already been to dinner ledge and don't want to do that since we will be there in two weeks.
Any suggestions or info would be great. | 
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By Tom Fralich
From Fresno, CA
Sep 5, 2012
| Lost Arrow Spire? There's a bivy every 4 pitches. |
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By randy88fj62
Sep 5, 2012
| Tom Fralich wrote: Lost Arrow Spire? There's a bivy every 4 pitches.
Thanks Tom, I'll look into that tonight. |
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By randy88fj62
Sep 5, 2012
| FreeRangeHuman wrote: go do the the column... it's the warmup/training ground, you'll fit right in
I only have the normal two day weekend and I'm driving up from LA. With driving time to and from plus the route I wouldn't make it in two days.
I am looking for a smaller route with less pitches that I can practice on so that my three day weekend coming up will have a better chance of success. |
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By Jon Rhoderick
Sep 5, 2012
| Well just cuz you won't summit doesn't mean it can't be a training climb. Get to the first or second terror ledges and then rap off to test how well you could bail with your haul bags, if you haven't already. |
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By Paul Gagner
Sep 5, 2012
| North Face of the Rostrum - you can walk off from the "bivy" ledge if you want, or go to the top
West Face of Leaning Tower
Lost Arrow is more involved than either of the above
Another option could be a route on Rixon's pinnacle. Though it's been so long since I've been up there I don't recall what the ledges are like.
And, the comment above regarding knowing how to bail, especially with haul bags, is a very good comment and skill to have.
Have fun and be safe!
Paul |
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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Sep 5, 2012
| the south face of washington column is a training aid climb. |
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By JCM
From Golden, CO
Sep 5, 2012
| Save yourself some driving. Aid (clean aid...) one of the steeper/harder free routes on Tahquitz, hauling your stuff, and then sleep on top. Walk down in the morning. |
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By Nick Stayner
From The Magic City
Sep 5, 2012
| Paul Gagner wrote: West Face of Leaning Tower
Agreed. |
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By Rob Gordon
From Hollywood, CA
Sep 6, 2012
| Suggestion: Don't get hantavirus. |
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By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Sep 6, 2012
| Jon Moen wrote: Save yourself some driving. Aid (clean aid...) one of the steeper/harder free routes on Tahquitz, hauling your stuff, and then sleep on top. Walk down in the morning.
Yeah this seems like it could work. The "Right X Crack" A2+ and "TM's Jewel" A3 might be doable for you. If not, you could probably aid up the Vampire, but you might also block a bunch of people free climbing.
Over at Suicide, you could do laps on "The Pirate" C1 and haul every time or you could aid both pitches of it for a full rope length of leading. "Insomnia" can be aided cleanly as well and it is almost entirely vertical or overhanging. Hell, you could probably sleep on a portaledge somewhere up there if you wanted to. |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Sep 9, 2012
| S. Face of the Column is about as straightforward as it gets. You're looking for a route that pretty much approximates the Column, so why not just go do that. The West Face is a good suggestion, but probably a step up from the Column in terms of logistics. That would be a good one to do after your success on the S. Face. |
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