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Training for goal routes on different rock type

Original Post
Matt Clay · · PNW · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1,032

My long-term goal routes are all on world-class quartzite but my only local outdoor climbing option is slabby to vertical granite. How do you effectively train for your dream routes when there is a dramatic difference in the style of climbing available on a weekly basis?

Biggest differences I'm seeing is the style of footwork required. On the granite your feet seem to stick anywhere; the quartzite is slick and provides very little chance for friction/smearing. Also my dream routes have nice pump-inducing edges, my local granite crag has tiny, sharp "crimps" that are mostly used for balance rather than cranking on.

Fortuna Wolf · · Durham, NC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 20

Gym. Set the holds up to match the movements.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635

"world-class quartzite" is an oxymoron.

Matt Clay · · PNW · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1,032

Come to Waterval-Boven. mountainproject.com/v/water…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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