My long-term goal routes are all on world-class quartzite but my only local outdoor climbing option is slabby to vertical granite. How do you effectively train for your dream routes when there is a dramatic difference in the style of climbing available on a weekly basis?
Biggest differences I'm seeing is the style of footwork required. On the granite your feet seem to stick anywhere; the quartzite is slick and provides very little chance for friction/smearing. Also my dream routes have nice pump-inducing edges, my local granite crag has tiny, sharp "crimps" that are mostly used for balance rather than cranking on.
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