The Training Camp comprises the various buttresses and outcroppings on the north side at the mouth of the canyon. It lies above the mostly grass-covered steep slope that runs down to the creek bed. The rock described by this area lies to the west of the very large, tall buttress that contains Bad Bananas and Super Bowl Wall.
The rock consists of a layer of crumbly, shattered, white quartzite topped with outcroppings of harder, better-quality reddish and yellowish quartzite. The lower, shattered layer is sort of a necessary evil; slog through it to get to the better rock above.
As of early 2008 route development is active and ongoing.
Getting There
The easiest approach is as for Super Bowl Wall and Bad Bananas. Continue west along the base of the rock following the sheep trails.
It is possible to approach more directly, but it is a miserable slog and leads to more erosion.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Training Camp:
A very enjoyable route with a first pitch on loose, fractured rock that is nevertheless pretty fun.P1 (5.9, 70') An intimidating 5.9 on really poor rock; it is, regardless, quite fun. The start is overhanging with crumbly footholds; getting off the ground is probably the hardest part. Even crumblier rock awaits, and getting up and over “the horn” partway up the pitch requires some effort as well. Eventually you reach much better quality quartzite and a bolted anchor on...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
On April 25 I bolted a line on the largest tower left of the tower that Covey Leader to Raven is on. Its most prominent aspect is east-facing and there is a large roof near the top. I bolted it knowing that the rock wasn't that great but felt like the good rock of the roof would make up for it. Well, I was wrong. The rock on the lower part is absolutely terrible. Probably the worst bolted rock in the canyon. Even with substantial cleaning, almost every hold crumbled, flexed, or broke. The roof at the top IS fun (and mid 5.10ish) but the hell you have to go through on the lower part does not make it worth it. The rock is bad enough to the point where it stops becoming comical or mildly irritating and starts to be scary, and you're afraid to make moves. I will soon remove my hangers and chains, leaving the bolts in the rock (you can access the anchors by walking around to the top. If someone wants to spend hours and hours cleaning the route (though I don't know if that would make such a huge difference...), feel free to add hangers back and claim the route as your own. I want nothing more to do with it... And for what it's worth, there's room to the right of this route for another line...
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