Training abs for climbing

I've started to take training seriously and want to hear any good methods for building core strength that will translate directly to climbing. I am focusing more on endurance climbing than power climbing. My goals involve 8 to 16 hour days of continuous climbing and/or jumaring. Where should I start with the abs? I know climbing is the best training for climbing, but I am rehabbing a shoulder and don't want to exceed 2 days climbing per week

Here is a good ab workout used by circus performers (Cirque du Soleil stuff, not Barnum & Bailey). It clocks in at just under four minutes.

youtube.com/watch?v=YCT76xa…

Even though it is a short workout, I imagine it will help your endurance too.

I started doing static front levers and over a few months was able to develop it so that I could hold a horizontal front lever, and it has helped my climbing a lot, especially the steep and roof climbs! Takes a little while to develop tho.

Micah Klesick wrote:I started doing static front levers and over a few months was able to develop it so that I could hold a horizontal front lever, and it has helped my climbing a lot, especially the steep and roof climbs! Takes a little while to develop tho.

There's an analysis on Self Coached Climber that argues that front levers aren't very climbing specific. Not sure what to make of it. Was hoping he'd expand on what he thought would be good core training for climbing, but still waiting.

selfcoachedclimber.com/2012…

Pilates!!!

Mark E Dixon wrote: There's an analysis on Self Coached Climber that argues that front levers aren't very climbing specific. Not sure what to make of it.

I don't think it's too specific to general route climbing, BUT it's pretty essential for world class comp climbing/bouldering, which is what Sean McColl is known for.

I also think Doug trivialized the actual core strength (vs the shoulder strength) required to hold a front lever. Yes, you can easily extend your legs out when your butt is on the bench, but not if the lever point is close to your shoulder joint as it is in a "dragon flag":


Most of the criticism Doug had with front lever can be made up by also doing the back lever (when I first tried it I was not as good at, even though it's supposed to be the easier of the 2), which is probably closer to the core muscle strength required for holding a static position on a steep roof.

What is your current core strength right now? Can you easily do 10 toes to bars with good form? Can you hold a l-sit on parallelettes for 30 secs? On on a steep overhang (like the steepest angle in the bouldering area at Mo-Millcreek which is 62deg OH), an you easily cut your feet and get them back on? Any of these exercises could be added to your routine for core.

I like this circuit from Crux Crush. It requires a pull-up bar and a gym ball. There's also an exercise that uses an elastic resistance band, but its my least favorite of the bunch.

JeffL wrote:I've started to take training seriously and want to hear any good methods for building core strength that will translate directly to climbing. I am focusing more on endurance climbing than power climbing. My goals involve 8 to 16 hour days of continuous climbing and/or jumaring. Where should I start with the abs? I know climbing is the best training for climbing, but I am rehabbing a shoulder and don't want to exceed 2 days climbing per week

I'm interested in why you are fixated on improving core strength as a way of getting better at climbing, have you noticed it as a weakness? I wouldn't focus on the abs too much, when you think your 'core' includes everything that isn't a limb effectively. The bigger the exercise and the more areas worked the more gains you will see in my view.

Things like planks, various exercises on gymnastic rings/strap trainers/physioballs, back extensions, glute-ham stuff, deadlifts, overhead squats will do wonders for your overall core strength and be way more effective than a few situps/similar

JeffL wrote:I've started to take training seriously and want to hear any good methods for building core strength that will translate directly to climbing. I am focusing more on endurance climbing than power climbing. My goals involve 8 to 16 hour days of continuous climbing and/or jumaring. Where should I start with the abs? I know climbing is the best training for climbing, but I am rehabbing a shoulder and don't want to exceed 2 days climbing per week

Core strength is more likely to be a limiting factor on shorter, steeper routes like boulder problems and sport routes. However, my advice for climbing specific core training would be to choose exercises that are climbing specific, meaning targeting the lower Rectus Abdominus and lower External Obliques. These are the parts of the muscles that are more active in pulling your legs toward your torso, whereas the upper parts of the muscle are more active in pulling your torso toward your legs. It sounds like the same thing, but there is a difference (think leg lifts vs crunches). You also want to choose isometric contractions (the joint angle does not change) over isotonic contractions (the joint angle does change), and finally, since you are talking about big days, do more volume at lower difficulty instead of low volume/high difficulty. What all this means in practical terms is: Hanging leg raises with long pauses at different angles, "foot touches" on a steep wall or in a cave (without moving the hands touch as many different footholds as possible, cutting feet in between each foothold you touch), and leg lifts with long pauses.