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Train Leg?

Original Post
Ujhbn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0

I wonder if rock climbers train their legs?

I have been climbing for over a year and never trained my legs. I think it starts to become one of my weakness. I'm 6.0ft 132lbs stiff skinny legs (low flexibility) I train hangboards/campus/antagonist but not my legs. I don't run or bike.

My thoughts is that I can't do well in high feet move, rock-over, dyno, heel hook, toe hook etc.

Should I train my legs? Or I just have bad techniques. I don't quite see other climbers have this problems. Do you guys train your legs?

Thank you in advance for replies.

EeT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Im sure some yoga would help, it helped my flexibility, I dont train legs because when I go out climbing im usually beasting 60+ pounds up some steep approaches but when im not out as much as id like I do try and use a step mechine or elliptical.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

If you feel that leg strength is a weakness - then Yes you should fix that problem with some training. At 6' and 132 you can stand to gain some strength I am sure.

Jeremy Riesberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

I like yoga for flexibility and functional movement. I also lift once per week. Full body with emphasis on the muscles that don't get worked while climbing, legs, chest, and biceps.

Andrew Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 60

full depth body weight squats, keep your arms outstretched in front of you. Calf raises, all day long. Be careful on crimps as you gain weight.

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

I used to run but do nothing else for my legs. Then I tore a hamstring fairly badly while heel hooking about a year ago. My PT got me doing some leg exercises and stretching to help it get better, and to reduce the risk of doing the same thing again. I think the stretching has helped; high stepping seems easier than it used to be, but maybe that's just my imagination. Either way, I'm going to keep up the exercises and the stretching.

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

In my opinion, the legs are the biggest antagonist muscle group...hamstrings and quads oppose low back and abdominal muscles. I started doing dead lifts one winter and my dynamic strength improved noticeably. But I think I have generally weak legs and hips so this was what I needed

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316

Mtn. biking, snowboarding and hiking.

Calf raises, wall sits and lightly weighted hamstring curls.

Strecthing

reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Andrew Wood wrote:full depth body weight squats
That's one of the better exercises for building leg strength, but perhaps not body weight only. An even better variation is full depth squat + push press (use bar, kettlebell or dumbbell), done dynamically (use your legs to explosively drive the press, not so much with your arms). And it seemed to have help a lot of people w/ hamstring flexibility & strength (no personally experience as it wasn't an issue for me).

Mike Brady wrote:Mtn. biking, snowboarding and hiking. Calf raises, wall sits and lightly weighted hamstring curls. Strecthing
All of these may build leg strength, none are specific or even very functional for climbing leg strength. One of the biggest "leg" issue I see climbers have is a disconnect between their legs and their glutes/torso, not necessarily lack of leg strength in itself. Traditional weight lifting (as well as gymnastics, martial arts training, even dancing) are great at addressing it.
Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

I've been told that training legs specifically increases testosterone which aids in whole body recovery. Has anyone ever seen a reliable source on this?

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,061
C. Archibald wrote:I've been told that training legs specifically increases testosterone which aids in whole body recovery. Has anyone ever seen a reliable source on this?
Training anything at high intensity increases testosterone, legs, arms, whatever. And yes, there are peer-reviewed journal article studies. The reason legs are usually cited is due to the size of those muscles and the corresponding impact. Your glutes and quads are big muscles, so wrecking them with heavy squats is going to elicit more of that effect than working smaller muscles.

Squats and deadlifts are king for putting a big impact on a lot of muscle mass. They also have a big posterior chain element from hams to spinal erectors, and strong posterior chain is a big deal for holding body tension on steep terrain.
Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016
Will S wrote: Training anything at high intensity increases testosterone, legs, arms, whatever. And yes, there are peer-reviewed journal article studies. The reason legs are usually cited is due to the size of those muscles and the corresponding impact. Your glutes and quads are big muscles, so wrecking them with heavy squats is going to elicit more of that effect than working smaller muscles. Squats and deadlifts are king.
Interesting. Thanks.
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Will S wrote: Training anything at high intensity increases testosterone, legs, arms, whatever. And yes, there are peer-reviewed journal article studies.
Are there convincing positive results of the latter part though (that the increased testosterone from other muscle groups aid whole body recovery)?
Will S wrote: strong posterior chain is a big deal for holding body tension on steep terrain.
I should emphasize it's not limited to steep terrain; it's also a foundation for (climbing) power even on relatively vertical terrain.
RyanJohnson · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 396
Ujhbn wrote: I train hangboards/campus/antagonist but not my legs. I don't run or bike. My thoughts is that I can't do well in high feet move, rock-over, dyno, heel hook, toe hook etc. Should I train my legs?
You should train your legs and hips.

A big part of face climbing is being squared off to the wall, with hips open and sucked into the wall. If you don't have the mobility in your hips to get close to the wall, you can't work that aspect of face climbing technique.

Same goes for high stepping, rock-overs and even deadpointing. If you don't have the hip mobility to get your foot onto a high hold, say waist-level or higher, and then be able to engage your legs/hips to pull your hips up and over your foot as you rock over. Then you can't work on rock-overs. Same for deadpoints, drive with your legs and extend your hips and torso.

Hip Strength - work your legs and hips. Your climbing will improve.
Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,316
reboot wrote: All of these may build leg strength, none are specific or even very functional for climbing leg strength.
I will longer listen to you. :)
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
C. Archibald wrote:I've been told that training legs specifically increases testosterone which aids in whole body recovery. Has anyone ever seen a reliable source on this?
Like Will said. It's based on the total amount of muscle mass that is taxed during the training.
It's pretty irrelevant though, when articles and trainers talk about an increase in Test or GH due to certain types of training they make it sound as if you're getting some huge increase similar to supplementing one of these substances.

The amount of increase is no where close to this. So training specifically to increase Test or GH production for performance gains isn't as useful as just doing sport specific training.

Favorite leg exercise for climbers. Pistol Squats
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
reboot wrote: ...One of the biggest "leg" issue I see climbers have is a disconnect between their legs and their glutes/torso, not necessarily lack of leg strength in itself. Traditional weight lifting (as well as gymnastics, martial arts training, even dancing) are great at addressing it.
i definitely have this problem. at a certain bending point in my leg, it's like my leg strength goes to zero. i have been using the leg press sled and doing one legged, deep leg presses. i do the legs individually because i have a significant difference in leg strength between my left and right legs. (my whole body pretty much has this problem - my 'push' muscles are a lot stronger on my left side and my 'pull' muscles are a lot stronger on my right side.

i generally don't do much leg work, but a route i want to do has a move where i need to be able to drive upwards really hard off of a deep right leg.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Brent Apgar wrote: Favorite leg exercise for climbers. Pistol Squats
hey brent, can you suggest some leg stuff as a 'road to pistol squats' ?
Mathias · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 306

I don't really train. I just do supplementary exercise. Hiking moderate and steep terrain is good for the legs though. Other than climbing, that's about all I do.

RyanJohnson · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 396
slim wrote: hey brent, can you suggest some leg stuff as a 'road to pistol squats' ?
Split squats, lateral squats, lateral lunges, progressively higher box steps. Try out assisted pistol squats, use the back of a chair to aid in lowering and pressing out of the movement.
Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 4,867

what are legs?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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