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Forgotten Wall, Control Tower & Up The Creek Wall
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Trailing Edge 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: JSt,EFR,'07
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring, Fall
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Dec 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The route climbs the shadowed weakness directly be...

Description 

This route has good trad pro when you need and a few bolts to supplement the gear. Interesting crack climbing before the summit block will test you.

Location 

Left of the chimney on the west face. Follow crack system up the back side.

Protection 

Bolts, Gear, Anchors


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By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 18, 2009

surprisingly, this may be the best route on the control tower. it looks shitty from the ground but the climbing is excellent and the gear is bomber and plentiful. there is at least one unsolicited bolt on this climb 4" from a solid #4 placement at the bottom, but of course i clipped it because i'm a pussy. the other bolt may not be necessary either; my buddy who led it after me put in two bomber pieces and skipped the bolt, but ran it out a bit.

this may not be 10a, but it's certainly harder than it was before i broke off a handhold at the roof and whipped. though my buddy who's a strong crack climber said it's a stretch to call it even 5.9...
By Jimbo
Apr 13, 2009

The moves out the roof at top of the dihedral are definitely 5.9.

I don't own a #4 camalot (If I did I might be tempted to use it) hence the 1st bolt.

I climbed this route a few weeks ago and Geir skipped the second bolt and placed gear also. When I pulled his "bomber cam" a slew of crumbly rock from inside the crack came with it.

"Don't Grab Here" is the best route on the control tower, IMO.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 27, 2010

yeah i sometimes put in bolts too where they're welcome but not completely necessary. if i remember correctly, i just wanted to say "unsolicited bolt" at the time, hence the comment.

great route.