Trailhead Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Trailhead Wall and The Bird's Nest. 1. Squid Kid....
Once a variety of routes were listed under Monitor Rock. To help with organization, we'll break these up into separate sections of the wall.
As is probably obvious from the name, this is the section of Monitor Rock that is first encountered as you hike up from CO Hwy 82. There are a terrific bunch of routes located quite conveniently for the climber. Probably best known in the area are The Mother Load
and Trooper Traverse
which may date back to WWII days. Fine additions have filled in the area.
Routes here include (L->R) off the ground:
A. Matchless, 12-, 2p.
B. Rad Lad
, 11, 1p, 115', bolts.
C. Squid Kid
, 10-, 1p, 120', bolts.
above C. Otis
, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
D1. The Other Road
, 11-, 3p, 300', bolts.
D2. Hemp Seeds Sowed
, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts + gear.
E. Brother Toad
, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
F. Trooper Traverse
, 8, 3p.
G. Pirate Mode
, 10, 3p, 250', bolts & gear.
H. Mother Lode
, 10, 3p, 350', gear.
I. Momentary Lapse of Reason, 11-.
J. Temporary Change of Season
, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.
Off CO Hwy 82, park at the parking area at the west side of the crag. Hike up the well-established trail to the west side of Monitor Rock.
Weather station 7.2 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Trailhead Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Trailhead Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Trailhead Wall:
Squid Kid 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Mother Lode 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 350'
Pirate Mode 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 275'
Brother Toad 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Meltdown 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Rad Lad 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Featured Route For Trailhead Wall
Squid Kid 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CO
: Independence Pass
: ... : Trailhead Wall
Squid Kid is directly opposite the trail where it meets the rock. There will most likely be someone on it! This is a very popular route, and it's as good as it looks from the ground. Varied climbing past 10 well-positioned bolts gains a ledge with 2 bolts. There is nothing too strenuous, but it is a lot of fun. You will need 2 ropes to get down!Eds. You can identify the route, left of the large trees, with a rightward pointing flake at about 6 bolts up. You can continue with Otis 5....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 8, 2011
Tried the first pitch of Matchless. Pretty stout for 12- as I couldn't even do the moves at the crux. Never could get to the first set of anchors. Nice job, L. Hadfield.
By Ryan Sather
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2014
Regarding the descent if one is doing longer routes like TT and Mother Load: even though there are nice bolts up and down this whole formation, I recommend doing the walk off. If one goes towards the opposite side of the formation once at the top, you will be able to follow different ledges and tiers eventually linking up with a game trail. Continue to follow that down, and it will spit you off around to where the nose and other moderate climbs start. Hope this is helpful! If walking off mother load, one will need to continue up a little ways via a easy corner crack system, and this will set you up basically at the top out of TT.