First a disclaimer - I only top roped this route, but it is good enough that I thought it was worth adding to the site (my partner who led it would certainly not get around to it).
The climb is called "Trailer Park Logic" and is rated 5.9+ in the new Knapp/Thompson/Aschert guide. It is listed as "Unknown" in Van Horn's guide as number 15 in the Gym section at 11b/c. It appeared to have a second pitch, which may warrant the 11b rating, but we only climbed the first pitch which felt about mid-10.
The climb is the first left of "I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like" on the Pinhead Wall. It starts in a corner with 2 bolts and goes left of a crack system, through a black bulge and meets up with the crack which veers left to join the route above the bulge. Very well bolted. Straight through the bulge is entertaining and only 10c due to good hands and feet, however there is certainly a temptation to go right into the crack a bit, which may be slightly easier.
I thought that the only thing this route had going for it was its length. It's sorta cool to climb to the top of the wall, but if that's what you are after, I think there are better choices. the first, 5.10 pitch was pretty chossy, and not really enjoyable moves. The upper pitch is more interesting, but contrived. I suppose if you stick to the arete, it could be considered 5.11, but it's very easy to climb a few feet to the right, on huge holds.
By Aeon Aki Administrator Apr 9, 2012 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a
P1 is "tradesque" with many crack climbing options, good stemming, and some questionable rock quality. I found the crux of the route to be on P1.
P2 can easily be linked into P1 and offers much better rock quality and excellent position. You can take it all the way to the top and look out across all of the Shelf Road area. Staying just right of the bolt line will keep the climbing at easy 5.10 though the sequences are cryptic as this one doesn't get much traffic.