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Cadillac Crag
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Midnight Trundler T,TR 
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Trail of Tears S 
Twistoflex T 
Untitled, The S 
V3 T 
You're Ugly and Your Mother Dresses You Funny T 

Trail of Tears 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Larry Harris
Fixed Hardware: 12 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: KCP on Jan 8, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Trail of Tears goes up the right face.

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Per EJM: this line is approximately 140 feet in length. With rope stretch, an 80 meter rope will just get you to the ground if your belayer steps into the starting alcove. TIE A KNOT.

Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this route is incredibly sustained. I thought there were two distinct cruxes- a 12c section getting from bolts 3 to 4, and a 12b section just past the 11th bolt. While there are a few areas of respite in which to shake out your calves, the majority of the climbing never falls much below 11+/12-.

This is a superb route, has great stone, is super sustained for 140', and strong toes and calves would be a huge asset.

Location 

Per EJM: this is located on the west face of Fin 3, just right of the beautiful dihedral of V3.

This is between V3 and Moonlight Drive.

Protection 

This is protected by 12 bolts. There are 2 anchor bolts.

Per EJM: there are 13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot with a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise. If you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet.


Photos of Trail of Tears Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: New anchors - the old bolts had been on the left n...
BETA PHOTO: New anchors - the old bolts had been on the left n...

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By EJM
Mar 12, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Located on the west face of fin 3, just right of the beautiful dihedral of V3.

Approximately 140 feet in length. With rope stretch, an 80 meter rope will just get you to the ground if your belayer steps into the starting alcove. TIE A KNOT.

13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot w a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise, if you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet.

Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this route is incredibly sustained. I thought there were two distinct cruxes- a 12c section getting from bolts 3 to 4, and a 12b section just past the 11th bolt. While there are a few areas of respite in which to shake out your calves, the majority of the climbing never falls much below 11+/12-.

A superb route, great stone, super sustained for 140', strong toes and calves would be a huge asset.

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