|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 160'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]|
|Fixed Hardware:||12 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]|
|Submitted By:||KCP on Jan 8, 2013|
|2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Trail of Tears||Add Comment|
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Mar 12, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Located on the west face of fin 3, just right of the beautiful dihedral of V3.
Approximately 140 feet in length. With rope stretch, an 80 meter rope will just get you to the ground if your belayer steps into the starting alcove. TIE A KNOT.
13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #3 Camalot w a runner placed between bolts 1&2 is wise, if you were to slip or botch clipping the 2nd bolt, you'd certainly hit the ground from 30+ feet.
Once established on the face, after the 2nd bolt, this route is incredibly sustained. I thought there were two distinct cruxes- a 12c section getting from bolts 3 to 4, and a 12b section just past the 11th bolt. While there are a few areas of respite in which to shake out your calves, the majority of the climbing never falls much below 11+/12-.
A superb route, great stone, super sustained for 140', strong toes and calves would be a huge asset.