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Trail of Tears 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 31, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Eric Shedd making the reach for the forth and fina...

Description 

This route is located left of Toilet Earth (5.9), and is a fairly new route not listed in Carville's book. The first pitch is 5.9 and could be done on it's own. The second is 11b.

Climb up a vertical section for about 35 feet with the crux near the fourth (last) bolt, and then move up onto the easy slab, where you will find the top anchors at the point where the rock gets vertical again some 50 feet later. The top section is runout 5.5.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. 8 bolts to another anchor for the second pitch.


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By Jazzy J. Arborcrumbler
Aug 26, 2015

Very high 1st bolt, decent sketch factor (probably not for a 5.11 climber though). Loooong runout from bolt 4 to anchors to finish P1, so don't fall although the climbing was much easier. DNF upper pitch. We mistook this one for Toilet Earth (150' 5.9) which is actually located to right past the good chilling out boulder. Does not appear to get much traffic, so good route to do when others are crowded. Don't set up TR from P1 anchors.
By Ben Stasiuk
From: West Newbury, MA
5 days ago

The second pitch has some pretty fun climbing and is worth checking out. A little run out but all the clipping holds are good. Go left at the "false anchor" (has one good bolt and one ripped about an inch out the wall) past one bolt then around the corner to the solid anchor.
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