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(1) North Face
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Traffic Court 

Traffic Court 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 42'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tim Olson, 8/22/92
Page Views: 1,510
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Oct 26, 2006
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Description 

Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travle up a left angle diheadrel (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.


Protection 

Pro to 2", 1 #3 Camalot.


Description 

Start up left of Gandalf's Grip in a corner. Clip a bolt, then travel up a left angle dihedral (crux). Climb a slab with small nuts to a 8 foot overhanging headwall. Left goes to the Original anchors. Right goes to Gandalf's Grip.


Protection 

Pro to 2", 1 #3 Camalot



Comments on Traffic Court Add Comment
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By Adam Therneau
Jun 1, 2007

This is one of the best 5.9 trad pitches I've done anywhere. It seemed a bit dirty and untraveled when I got on it. The right finish through the roof is the crux of the route and definitely the way to go in my opinion.

By Bryson Slothower
Jul 1, 2007

continue to the top of Gandalf's in 1 pitch with a 60m rope.

By Burk S.
From: Lebanon, Oregon
Jun 28, 2012

I agree with Adam, one of the best 5.9 trad climbs. Its sloped enough where its a small finger crack rated below 5.10. I also agree, go through the roof! If you are worried, stick a yellow BD cam in the crack above the roof and go for it!