Traditions  5.11c

1,271 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Lassiter Submitted By:  s f on Oct 13, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Closed MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013 All climbing between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are closed due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1: Slab up a full rope length, cutting hard left at the bowl near half way (extend your gear with several slings), passing some cruxy smears and a couple of bolts to a double bolt anchor at the base of a steep face right of a right facing dihedral. (5.9+)

P2: Climb right off of the belay and fire up over a few bolts to a single bolt belay with gear. (5.11a)

P3: Trend hard right and follow the path of least resistance up the juggy but poorly protected face. When in doubt, go right. Pass a bolt and a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor. (5.8) Linking pitches two and three is possible with a 70m cord and some long runners.

P4: Continue up the face past some gear to the ledge left of the Crescent Pitch on the OR. Cut hard left to the base of the obvious crux pitch and build a gear belay where the bolted belay once was. (5.8)

P5: Pull the short left facing corner feature to gain a ledge and then a bolt, continue straight up over steeper but juggy terrain, passing more fixed gear, then cut left and engage the thin crux. After the crux, carefully climb the unprotected face above to a two bolt anchor. (5.11c)

P6: Walk right along the ledge until you can head up over fixed gear to a stance and belay. (5.9+)

P7: Beginning at a short right facing dihedral, go straight up past some juggy features and a couple of bolts to the base of a tree ledge and belay. (5.10a)

P8: Thrash through the bushes to the base of the rock and climb the featured slab to the top of the route, trending a bit right near the end. Belay below the rail. (5.8)

Recommended Alternative: At the base of pitch 6, leave the belay to the left and climb straight up over the fairly well protected faced (5.9) and link this with pitch 7 (5.10a) for a much more direct and highly enjoyable alternate.

Location 

Located on the "right" end of the Southeast face, the first pitch begins at the base of a slab with a low bolt and an overlap at around 50 feet before you reach the Original Route. This route is currently subject to seasonal falcon closures, so please check the kiosk at the trail head for restrictions (strictly enforced).

Protection 

Take a single rack through #2 C4 with an optional #3, a few smaller brassies, some tricams, half a dozen draws, and some long slings.

While the cruxes can be french freed, there is some runout moderate terrain.