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Traditionalists at Work 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dale Hass & Bruce Hildenbrand, 1987
Page Views: 914
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Apr 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Yup, it goes right up the middle of the photo. Yo...

Description 

This is the furthest right route on the Gray Wall on the left side of Java Dome.

To reach this wall, hike the north gully past Atlantis Dome. Follow a faint trail that descends from Atlantis into the bottom of the drainage and meets with the base of Java Dome at its lowest point. Scramble over a few boulders and up a 3rd or 4th class cleft in the slab for a few hundred feet or so. The routes will be on the right and fairly noticable since most have new bolts.

Traditionalists at Work starts just right of a large tree. It is hard to pick out the buttonhead bolts at first glance. This route has very well spaced bolts, and all are in good condition for buttonheads. Start in the cleft between the low angle slab and the gray wall, and move left after the first bolt. The crux comes after the second bolt. The angle eases, and four or five more bolts lead to a two bolt anchor and an easy walk off to the left, 170'.

Protection 

6 or 7 draws.


Photos of Traditionalists at Work Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A rope hanging on the route.
BETA PHOTO: A rope hanging on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The anchor bolts. Thanks, ASCA!
The anchor bolts. Thanks, ASCA!

Comments on Traditionalists at Work Add Comment
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By Bruce Hildenbrand
Apr 18, 2003

About the buttonhead bolts, when Dale Hass and I put up this route in 1987, we used 5/16" Rawl buttonheads which were cutting edge (supposedly) at the time for lead bolting on granite (it takes sooooo long to drill a hole in granite). Recent experiences by the American Safe ClimbingAssociation (ASCA) indicate that these are a very good choice for lead bolting as they are pretty strong (AKA very hard to remove when re-bolting).
By John McMullen
From: El Portal, CA
Apr 25, 2009

Good post Bruce. I'll also mention that you could not buy bolts everywhere like you do now, and that our choice was very limited. I was never worried about the strength of the bolts ... and I tested quite a few.

Trying to buy bolts at a climbing shop practically required taking a verbal test with the shop owner. They didn't hand them out without question.
By slim
Administrator
Jul 20, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really nice, long route with good rock. Bolts are looking pretty old, but I gave them all a good tug and they didn't bust off in my hands, so....
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Jun 27, 2011

Bolts and anchor a nice new bolts, thanks to Mat for the hard work.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jun 18, 2014

Yes! Thanks to Mat for his hard work!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 13, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is my favorite route on this part of the rock. This is probably because I don't enjoy slab very much and the others are difficult by comparison. I think this route is true to its grade. The first bolt is pretty high, and a fall before clipping it would result in a injury.

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