Traditional Fairytale 5.5
| 709 page views Good page?  |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Jon Ruland, Jen Ivey, Eric Ivey |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Boodge Nomchompski on Feb 1, 2010 |
| |
Jen on the second ascent.
Add Photo Printer View
Description This is the obvious crack running up the narrow south face of the tower. It finishes under the big roof at a set of rap anchors. This would be a good first trad lead for new climbers.
Location Southernmost point of the tower.
Protection Gear to 3 inches. Note, gear at the start is tricky, but a 3" cam with a long runner or a slung chickenhead will tame the opening moves, even if it comes off as you pass it. Should get you safely established into the crack.
| Comments on Traditional Fairytale |
|
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Feb 1, 2010 rating: 5.5
| the crack system here is really cool. as usual, too bad it isn't longer. |
By Alex McIntyre From: Tucson, AZ Feb 12, 2011 rating: 5.5
| I walked up here today (stopped by on my way to running at Windy Point) and I found there was some tat (slung in the bad "American Triangle" method) hanging from the anchors. I found this odd as the hangars are definitely Metolius rap hangars and don't need webbing to rap from. Definitely an eyesore as it is black webbing that stands out against the rock. Also, the roof appears to have some holds; has anyone attempted to climb it? Or is it too chossy? |
By Alex McIntyre From: Tucson, AZ Feb 24, 2011 rating: 5.5
| Did this today as my first trad lead and it was really fun! I thought it would be crappy because it is only 5.5 but it turned out to be quite fun. A #3 Camalot C4 works great to protect the move into the crack. |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Sep 14, 2011 rating: 5.5
| i had been considering the roof as i had been eying the holds you mentioned. it would be a nice 10-foot or so traverse with your body pretty much horizontal. in the end i decided against putting in the work to bolt it, but i may reconsider it this season if the mood strikes me. or someone else can give it a shot. ;) |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Nov 28, 2011 rating: 5.5
| one of the anchor hangers came off of this yesterday as i was attempting to clean the route. the nut was loose and it popped off as i was pulling on it. i will replace it as soon as i can, but anyone aiming to do this route should be aware there is only a single anchor hanger at this time. |
By aequis From: Vail, AZ Oct 23, 2012
| Like this climb, could like it more if the stance at the bolt(s) didn't seem as awkward to me. Jon, you say the nut popped off, is the bolt still sound or should it be redrilled? I didn't think to wiggle it while I was there. ETA--> Thanks Jon! Glad I checked here first, was planning to put in new hanger on Thursday. |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Dec 3, 2012 rating: 5.5
| the bolt is still sound. i'll be heading up there on saturday to replace the hanger. i should have done that a long time ago. |
By Jon Ruland From: Tucson, AZ Dec 9, 2012 rating: 5.5
| hanger replaced. |
|