Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Sorcerer
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T 
Davy Jones' Locker T 
Don Juan Wall, The T 
Ice Pirates T 
Lost at Sea T 
Pinhead T 
Pyromania T 
Raven, The T 
Scirocco S 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stars and Stripes Forever T 
Thin Ice T 
Tradewinds S 
Wailing Banshees T 
Unsorted Routes:

Tradewinds 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Bill Leventhal, Brian Jonas, Craig Lemond, September 1997
New Route: Yes
Season: Late spring thru early fall
Page Views: 1,429
Submitted By: Levy on Jun 14, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Unknown climber on Tradewinds, 5.11. A fun, well ...

Description 

This climb is right of Sirocco & is better protected than its more famous neighbor. Fun, steep face climbing on flakes & edges crosses the Sirocco ledge & continues up the face, tending right to the anchors. There is a crux is about halfway up passing a bulge, although the upper crux is engaging as well. The route could be extended to continue into Don Juan Wall, to the right but it would likely be more difficult than 5.11. One may also use this approach to get to the first anchors of Sirocco


Location 

Located between Sirocco, and Don Juan Wall, on the East face of the Sorcerer. You start out of the gully behind the block just left(South) of the start of Thin Ice.


Protection 

Some small nuts & cams for the belay at the start of the route. Only bolts are necessary for this route. A rarity for the Needles. 7 bolts, plus 2 for the anchors.



Comments on Tradewinds Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Sep 8, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There are 8 bolts on this route. A belay can be made at the base by looping your rope around a boulder. The anchor has two fixed biners that allow you to lower off.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Nov 1, 2009

Confused....The route description states that there are two bolts for the anchor, but Luke states that there are two pins. Which is it?

Edit: Indeed you did write fixed biners. I guess I saw 'fixed' and my brain computed 'pin'. Thanks anyway Luke.

By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Nov 17, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I said two fixed biners aka carabiners not pins... The anchor is two bolts each with a piece of chain and a biner on the end for lowering. The only reason I mentioned is is because there are no hangers, just a short chain and a carabiner.