Tradewinds 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b/c [details] |
| FA: | Bill Leventhal, Brian Jonas, Craig Lemond, September 1997 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Late spring thru early fall |
| Submitted By: | Levy on Jun 14, 2009 |
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Unknown climber on Tradewinds, 5.11. A fun, well ...
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Description This climb is right of Sirocco & is better protected than its more famous neighbor. Fun, steep face climbing on flakes & edges crosses the Sirocco ledge & continues up the face, tending right to the anchors. There is a crux is about halfway up passing a bulge, although the upper crux is engaging as well. The route could be extended to continue into Don Juan Wall, to the right but it would likely be more difficult than 5.11. One may also use this approach to get to the first anchors of Sirocco
Location Located between Sirocco, and Don Juan Wall, on the East face of the Sorcerer. You start out of the gully behind the block just left(South) of the start of Thin Ice.
Protection Some small nuts & cams for the belay at the start of the route. Only bolts are necessary for this route. A rarity for the Needles. 7 bolts, plus 2 for the anchors.
By Luke Stefurak From: Mountain View, CA Sep 8, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| There are 8 bolts on this route. A belay can be made at the base by looping your rope around a boulder. The anchor has two fixed biners that allow you to lower off. |
By J. Albers From: Colorado Nov 1, 2009
| Confused....The route description states that there are two bolts for the anchor, but Luke states that there are two pins. Which is it? Edit: Indeed you did write fixed biners. I guess I saw 'fixed' and my brain computed 'pin'. Thanks anyway Luke. |
By Luke Stefurak From: Mountain View, CA Nov 17, 2009 rating: 5.11c
| I said two fixed biners aka carabiners not pins... The anchor is two bolts each with a piece of chain and a biner on the end for lowering. The only reason I mentioned is is because there are no hangers, just a short chain and a carabiner. |
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