By Chris Wenker
From Santa Fe
Oct 23, 2009
| Crag Dweller wrote: Actually, it appears to be growing out from under a little flake. But, I noticed after I posted my comment that the 'biners can't be removed from the rap ring. I'd be short a couple of slings after rapping off this thing, that's fo sho.
I don't read Italian, but it looks like most of those types of setups go at 22-30 kn. But, yeah, they look like paperclips.
http://www.raumerclimbing.com/ita/prodotti_clista.asp?cat=gr>>>>> | 
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By Chris Wenker
From Santa Fe
Oct 23, 2009
| From the English site: "The fixing of Full Time occurs leading percussion, in fact, a stop absolutely inviolable, durable and safe."
Yeah, that helps a lot.
:-P right back atcha |
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By Kevin Cossel
From Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2009
| Chris Wenker wrote: From the English site: "The fixing of Full Time occurs leading percussion, in fact, a stop absolutely inviolable, durable and safe."
Wow ... maybe the Italian is actually easier to understand. |
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By logan johnson
Oct 26, 2009
| On my first alpine lead in the Indian Peaks I set a belay with three nuts and a cam behind a fridge sized block sitting on a 2'X4' ledge (I thought the block was connected to the wall.)
I set up a nice re-direct and belayed my second up. Just as he stood on the ledge I shifted my weight to tie him in, at that moment the block shifted and all three pieces blew. Luckily my partner grabbed my flailing arms and pulled me back onto the ledge.
My partner never climbed again after that. |
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By BrianH
From Santa Fe NM
Oct 26, 2009
| John Hegyes wrote: Here's a pic of the old anchor on Hop Route in Red Rock at about 175' up. Someone came along and chopped it so you have to climb a second pitch and do the sketchy walk-off now. That was two years ago, I don't know if the situation has improved.
I was on the route about 3 weeks ago and there is now a brand spanking new (and shiny) two bolt anchor at the top of the finger crack that ends the first pitch! We shamelessly clipped in after taking a few huffs from our supplementary O2.
A question I've been meaning to ask: On the descent from Hop ROute, we came across a rap anchor that consisted of a 3 inch tree, and a bomber stopper. My reservation was that the stopper had a piece of webbing going through the wire bale. The other end of the webbing had a rap ring attached. I refused to rap of that until we replaced the webbing against the wire with a quick link (a bail 'biner would have been fine too).
So does webbing tied directly into the wire of a stopper give you pause? |
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By Ed Wright
Oct 26, 2009
| Mike Thompson wrote: so i was reading a different topic on a different forum and i saw a picture of one of the worst anchors i had ever seen. so i decided to get others input :) what is the worst anchor you have ever seen? fixed or placed by your gumby leader that you were horrified to climb up to :) post away! this is the anchor i saw :)
I once hung off an anchor that looked just like this one, sans the 'biner, with five other guys, while we rapped off the ring, one by one, and I was the last to go. |
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By Jesse Davidson
From san diego, ca
Oct 26, 2009
| BrianH wrote: So does webbing tied directly into the wire of a stopper give you pause?
I certainly wouldn't lead past it, but in the world of sketchy rappel anchors, I'd feel pretty good about it.
I wish we had a picture of it, but a friend and I once rappelled off of a piece of 1" webbing duct-taped to a horn, the top of which was probably 80 degrees from the plane of the rock. He went first and I watched to make sure it didn't shift. It didn't, so I went.
If you find the webbing, please return it to me. It was blue, and its in the cascades somewhere with duct tape on it. |
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By Monty
From golden
Oct 26, 2009
|
If any one has ever climbed or rapped pale fire on mosses you've seen lots of these... So whats the shear strength of a 30+ year old star drive in sandstone anyway? |
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By Daryl Allan
From Sierra Vista, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
| Who cares? That shit is pimp! |
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By Jason Kaplan
From Evergreen Co
Oct 26, 2009
| Gotta wonder if the sandstone or the star drive will blow first, not real comforting for sure. I wasn't psyched about the star drives on the first pitch of the sun devil chimney. They were 3/8 too with aluminum angle hangers! How long are those things anyway like an inch? |
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By Bobby Hanson
From Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 27, 2009
| jane-gallwey wrote: http://tinypic.com/r/2ex68ar/4 Far better than a lot of the ones on here, but I still didn't like it much when I was hanging on it/wedging myself in the crack for dear life.
That held weight? :) |
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By John Farrell
From Chandler, AZ
Oct 27, 2009
| Steve Levin wrote: Climbers have nothing on canyoneers! Here's a "good" anchor in Trail Canyon, Utah, with Steve "Ram" Ramras rappelling.
Gotta love Deadman Anchors! They make for a pretty intense rappel. |
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By Jason Kaplan
From Evergreen Co
Nov 4, 2009
| Got some new ones to add from last weekend, these were some pretty good sized raps too!
Retrievable!
|
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By J. Albers
From California
Nov 4, 2009
| John H.,
Am I missing something, or was that bolt placement a little suspect even before it showed through. Putting a bolt that close to an edge in granite is one thing, but RR sandstone? Hmmm. |
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By WiledHorse
From NoGo
Nov 4, 2009
|
that looks about as solid as some of the other stuff i have seen in Eldo. that quicklink looks pretty small, maybe two would be better. |
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By Matthew Carlson
Nov 4, 2009
| Sadly I didn't have my camera with but I was at Grand Ledge in Michigan this weekend climbing. I have heard reports of sketchy anchors but I thought it was a lie till I met these guys. As I was cleaning my anchor at the top I noticed these two dudes setting up theirs. Their equipment was:
1 tree rapped with a cinch strap you use for hauling crap
1 rope running directly over the strap
Anyways I gave them one of my extra biners so that the rope was at least not running over the strap and ran before someone died. |
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By Forestvonsinkafinger
From Iowa
Nov 4, 2009
| This behavior is appalling, but unfortunately un-unique. I've seen people run a top rope around a tree trunk.
Descending often is where more of the adventure lies. What goes in a good "what now" kit? |
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By mikewhite
Nov 5, 2009
| Rich Farnham wrote: Hey Joe! It's been a while--hope all's well. Oh well, in that case... Maybe the ARI folks will start using this method. Rather than their typical announcement ("bolts replaced with 1/2-inch SS anchors donated by ARI") we would start to see: "manky old stoppers donated by..."
Has anybody looked at the ARI page and seen the work they do?
Why dont they reuse the old holes? |
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By Rick Blair
From Denver, Co
Nov 5, 2009
| Matthew Carlson wrote: Sadly I didn't have my camera with but I was at Grand Ledge in Michigan this weekend climbing. I have heard reports of sketchy anchors but I thought it was a lie till I met these guys. As I was cleaning my anchor at the top I noticed these two dudes setting up theirs. Their equipment was: 1 tree rapped with a cinch strap you use for hauling crap 1 rope running directly over the strap Anyways I gave them one of my extra biners so that the rope was at least not running over the strap and ran before someone died.
That biner may have saved someones life.
Did you happen to ask if either of them had been ice climbing in Vail this last winter? And then went on morning talk shows the next day....... this sounds familiar. |
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