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Re slinging aliens

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By pacoarg9
From west hartford, ct
Oct 16, 2009

Hello again everyone. Thanks for the advice and info on the thread I posted before. I had another question seeking advice and what people think. As far as re-slinging aliens goes. I want to change the slings I have on my aliens without paying too much money or sending them in to someone. I bought a few 3 ft sections of 5mm and 6mm cordelletes. I used a triple fishermans knot to secure the ends together. While this creates a big not that could get stuck in a crack or something, it seemed a decent alternative to sending them in. Is it better to use a small .5 or 1 inch inch, thick webbing or is a new cordelette just as good?

Thanks for the comments


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
Windy!

I've seen plenty of pictures of people slinging their cams like that, and it's also used for rigid stem cams on a "gunks tie-off".

That being said, why would you want to be cheap when it comes to your life saving devices?


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By pacoarg9
From west hartford, ct
Oct 16, 2009

I didn't mean to come off as being cheap. I also had bought used BD cams that I sent in to re-sling because the hole on end of them stem was small and figured BD would do a better job. The ends of the aliens are big and it seemed like a waste to send them in when I can do it myself. I just wanted to see what people recommend I use to make a sling. I also was going to see if anyone recommends a certain company to send the aliens to.


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By slim
Oct 16, 2009

i've reslung cams myself with tied cord and webbing, and i have also sent them in to yates. by far, it is worth it to send them in to yates. it definitely streamlines things when you don't have a bunch of bulky knots tangling up your rack.


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By Clayton Laramie
From Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
profile

I think Yates will re-sling cams from other companies. For $5 to $10 per cam it might be best to just have full strength, sewn slings.

If you are going to tie slings, make sure ou know the breaking strength of the cord you are going to use and the weakening effect of the joining knot. If you take a 6mm cord and decrease the strength 35%+ you could be entering the range of failure in a big fall. At very least, I would use full strentgh webbing or a 5000lb cord when doing this myself.

CL


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By rhyang
From San Jose, CA
Oct 16, 2009
5-September-2009: Me leading the North Face (5.8)<br /><br />pic by Laura Molnar

Mountain Tools also reslings cams. They are closer to me (Carmel, CA) so I sent one to them instead. They did good work.


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By Jeremy Fields
From Longmont, CO
Oct 16, 2009
Climbing the Chere Couloir

Be careful with what you use as a sling. Equipment manufacturers use fat webbing specifically because testing showed that a narrow connection (i.e. clipping directly with a carabiner) causes the cam's loop to bend to such a narrow angle that it can fail.

As BD says in their literature: Clipping directly into the wire loop with a carabiner can reduce the strength of the unit by up to 2 kN (450 lbf).

I would imagine it would cause the same effect to use something like accessory cord.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Oct 16, 2009
Russ

Jeremy Fields wrote:
Be careful with what you use as a sling. Equipment manufacturers use fat webbing specifically because testing showed that a narrow connection (i.e. clipping directly with a carabiner) causes the cam's loop to bend to such a narrow angle that it can fail. As BD says in their literature: Clipping directly into the wire loop with a carabiner can reduce the strength of the unit by up to 2 kN (450 lbf). I would imagine it would cause the same effect to use something like accessory cord.



Can you provide a link to the webbing tests and the BD info?


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By Jeremy Fields
From Longmont, CO
Oct 16, 2009
Climbing the Chere Couloir

The quote came from the Camalot user's guide PDF:
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/uploads/black-diamond/f>>>>>

I also heard it from a BD-sponsored AMGA guide that I took a Trad course from. Both are in relation to clipping a carabiner in directly to the cam loop. I'm thinking the narrow diameter of the cordelette is going to create a similar stress--better safe than sorry to get them professionally replaced.


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By Robert 560
From The Land of the Lost
Oct 16, 2009
Toby

Fish Products does a fine job of re-slinging, so does Forrest Safety products.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Oct 17, 2009
Russ

(link did not work.... BD site down? I found a Euro version)

re: the cite.... True story. It really only comes into play on C4 point5 and below. Trimming 450lbs off of the larger cams still keeps the BS way up there.

If your cams really need to be reslung, I'd send them back to CCH. Most places/manufacturers charge between $3 and $5 for new slings. Well worth it for the color coding alone.


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