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How's your head?

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By Jake D.
Sep 24, 2009

jmeizis wrote:
Depends on the day. A couple weeks ago I was simul-climbing 5.10 terrain on crappy rock with a single .75 between us. It was a no fall situation and I was whining and shaking at a fall that would have killed us both. I felt really out of control in that situation and didn't feel like I could back down or move forward. I'd never done a climb where I felt so completely out of control both of the moves and the situation in general while being extremely run out. Usually if I run it out I feel very confident in myself mentally and physically. A while after getting dropped I had trouble leading the easiest of climbs without hyperventilating. For me it has a lot to do with how much control I feel over a situation and myself. I feel good running it out when I get good rests or have good holds on good rock but I tend to start sketching out on pumpy terrain or anything where I feel out of balance or don't see a safe position in the near future.


exactly what i look for in a "guide" :eye rolly:


I haven't done the trad thing in a while so we'll see how my head responds when i get to the gunks soon. Confidence in my climbing ability tends to get me from one placement to another... but my numbers don't match up very well so i should hope that would be true.


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By Jesse Davidson
From san diego, ca
Sep 24, 2009
california boy<br />

On the good days, I place when I have to and run it out when I can.
On the bad days, I place when I can and run it out when I have to.


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By awesomejacksonhole
From Laramie, WY
Sep 24, 2009

I tend to be a fairly bold leader. I don't take unnecessary risks, but I will take some if the time is right. I can lead at a moderate grade for myself fairly quickly with a minimum of gear, but as things start to get harder I put in more gear. Perhaps this is a common trait for everyone and 'run out' just depends on how strong a person is. Also, if the rock is a little more insecure then that changes everything. If the rock is loose or whatever then it is scarier to run it out. Or if it is wet or has been raining recently. I find it far easier to run out even hard terrain as long as it is secure feeling. hell, I'll even skip primo gear placements in favor of speed on looong multi-pitch climbs. e.g. 15 pitches or longer. they say that speed is safety and I agree. You HAVE TO get off big climbs before that storm rolls in or before night time. Also, if I have a really good piece, then I can run it out a lot farther after that because I know that somewhere down there is a bomber piece that will stop me. Falling onto the belay is a whole different story. Also, jeapordizing your partners is a bigger deal than simply taking a risk for yourself. If you get hurt on a long climb then somebody has to deal with you. I also like to do highball bouldering as a way to practice my head. I find that if I can keep it together on a desperate highball then I certainly can deal with a little run out on a lead. at least then you are not too worried about hitting the ground. Of course hitting a ledge is a different story. that could be as bad as hitting the ground. If you think about it, the ground is basically like a very big ledge so what is the difference? Also, the person belaying me makes a big difference. I have climbed with people who are not as good as me who actually SCARE me when I look down even if I'm not runout. Sometimes I'd rather be free soloing which is something I do with a significant amount of self-confidence. I would never recommend free soloing for someone who is not into it or who is doing it for the wrong reasons, but if you really want to it sure makes running it out seem pretty mellow. I have even free soloed short 5.12's!!! If your an aspiring runout type climber I would recommend a technique that I picked up in SoCal. We would pick a climb and do it a bunch of times each time with progressively less gear/bolts. Eventually we would be able to climb it with hardly any gear at all and then only at the hard parts. Eventually you learn when you do need gear and when you don't. If you place just one piece before the hardest moves and none in between then you'll use WAY less gear and end up climbing WAY faster. I guess it is just up to you how you want to do it. For me, I'll run it out any day!


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By lee hansche
From goffstown, nh
Sep 25, 2009
loving the rock, on cannon cliff...

awesomejacksonhole wrote:
We would pick a climb and do it a bunch of times each time with progressively less gear/bolts. Eventually we would be able to climb it with hardly any gear at all and then only at the hard parts.


I've been doing a similar thing leading sport routes on gear recently... Well protected sport routes i've done 50 times are all of a sudden exciting again... Its really just a fun game to me but it does help you keep your head in the game...


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