The recent thread about a 5.14c on-sight made me wonder what the highest graded trad on-sight is. I'm using the distinction of highest graded vs most difficult to avoid the argument, but I suppose I'm interested in both answers. While we're at it... who do you think the greatest on-sight trad climber was/is?

Yuji Hirayama has onsighted Sphinx Crack at 13b trad. He has onsighted several big routes in Yosemite as well: Quantum Mechanic, The Crucifix, and almost onsighted Golden Gate on El Cap.

Although not the highest grade, Leo Holding's onsight of Southern Bell on Half Dome (5.12+ X) is equally impressive to me. (edit:I was misinformed on Southern Belle, he freed it on his second attempt)

Beth Rodden onsighted the Phoenix... .13b?

EDIT: it's in MP at .13a.

Onsights are interesting, but if we're talking trad, the real deal is onsight FA's. They don't happen everyday, but are one of the more rewarding and notable experiences you can have climbing.

I've done a few of those at easier grades and they ARE really fun! it seems like ground up trad fa without preview would be the most proud. Hats off to those who have done it.

I agree with Healyje.
My most memorable leads are the ones where I've established a new route, on-sight, trad.
A line done this way is an adventure and not merely a workout.

Take a look at what Henry Barber did in his world travels to new areas, when he was in his prime. He might not have the single hardest grade for a FA onsight, but he probably put up more extreme FA onsights in a 4 or 5 yr period than anyone else I've ever heard of. I've read many accounts about how he would blow into an area and in a weeks time, raise the level of climbing in that area, sometimes 2 full grades! - many of them free-solos's!

Gotta think that on-sight would be the ultimate consideration. But, take the next step and ask "what are the difficult routes on-sight free soloed"? That's rarified air. Add in first ascent as well, and you're into a philosophical stratosphere: Robbins-style idealism and Erickson-like execution.

It was always my hope to somehow grasp a little of that experience, high above the clouds. Despite lagging tendons, my temperament has allowed me to try.

Leo Holding and Dean Potter did the 2nd on the Southern Belle and it took more than 2 tries. Cool topic tho, I'd like to know myself.

Arctic Rage has to the most intense route.

Arctic Rage A2 WI6+ R VI (4,500�) 3/31-4/3/04, Ben Gilmore & Kevin Mahoney

It's articled in Alpinist 8 by Mahoney & also cataloged in the Journal -- taking a natural line up through the Moose's Tooth with a death defying OW section. The presentation at the AAC mtg a few years back was bone-chilling considering the technical grade, commitment, & weather conditions. (and really, I felt the climbing authors took us on a description of an X rated route).

It really sticks out in my mind as one of the most intense ascents.